Most shops in Israel work with specific wineries and importers. Therefore, they provide a full range of that wineries and select imported wines, also often in several series from the big wineries.
Barrel aged Dolcetto can cost more than $20. This grape didn't catch me yet and I would avoid ordering Dolcetto in a restaurant for this reason. I find these wines dry, tannic and too simple to enjoy. Italian Barbera on the other hand can be a very pleasant and inexpensive wine. Hope that kosher Barbera is made in Italy too.
Many of the notes in the article describe the wines as bitter or tannic.
To the question about the wineries. I think it's all business and marketing. Wineries tend to produce series of wines. They probably do what they can under the price constraints, less aging, lower quality grapes, less volume control of the harvest.
Some wineries like Barkan and Carmel we know not because of their top-tier reds, but because of their lowest/mid series. Not that they excel in that
, but they try and improve over the years and for that a credit.