Pelter Winery: My Annual Visit With Tasting Notes

[Daniel Rogov]

Quite early this morning I made my way to the Golan Heights to do my annual tasting at the Pelter winery. The winery was established in 2002 on Moshav Zofit in Central Israel and since 2005 has been located on Kibbutz Ein Zivan on the Golan Heights.

Winemaker Tal Pelter, who studied oenology and worked at several wineries in Australia draws on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Shiraz, Petit Verdot, Grenache, Tempranillo, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay grapes, mostly from the Golan and the Upper Galilee with some coming from the Jerusalem Mountains.

The winery, one of only four in the country to produce a sparkling wine by the method Champenoise, releases wines in two series: T-Selection and Pelter. In the quite near future the winery will also release its new flagship wine, “I”, that from the 2008 vintage. Production from the 2002 vintage was about 4,000 bottles. Growth has been well planned, and current production is about 85,000 bottles annually.

This is the kind of winery that critics most enjoy, the wines rising in both quality and interest on a regular basis. More than that, since its inception the winery has clearly reflected the philosophy of its winemaker. In my 2005 and 2006 books, the Pelter winery earned 3 stars; in the 2007 and 2008 books it moved up to 4 stars and since the 2009 edition has earned the top rating of 5 stars, that indicating a world-class winery, regularly producing excellent wines . The winery comfortably holds on to its five stars and continues to demonstrate itself as one of the best and most exciting in the country.

Prices are given for those wines that are newly released as well as for those older wines that remain in stock. Best bet for contacting the winery is via their internet site at http://www.pelterwinery.co.il .

My thanks to Tal Pelter as well as to Efrat and Tair of the winery for a fine tasting and their good company.

The White and Rosé Wines

Pelter, Sauvignon Blanc, 2010: Light straw in color, casing green and orange reflections, unoaked and medium-bodied, opening with notes of navel oranges and red grapefruit, those parting to make way for tropical fruits, stony minerals and a tantalizing hint of freshly mown grass. Crisp acidity makes the wine simultaneously complex and easy to drink. Drink now-2012. NIS 70. Score 90. (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Chardonnay, 2010: As it is every year an unoaked white, damp golden straw in color, medium-bodied and opening to show an appealing array of citrus, tropical fruits and white peaches, all on a background that hints of flinty minerals and coming together as a refreshing and elegant whole. Drink now-2013. NIS 70. Score 90. (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Chenin Blanc, 2010 (Barrel Tasting): Light shining gold with a green tint, showing a light and tantalizing hint of wood (is that oak, cedar or mahogany that one senses?). Medium- to full-bodied, with a buttery texture opening to reveal aromas and flavors of figs, melon and pears and, from mid-palate on a tempting hint of honesuckle. Fine acidity that leads to a long finish on which a note of bitter almonds. Drink from release-2014. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Rosé, 2010: Baby-blanket pink in color, made entirely from Tempranilo grapes that were allowed 12 hours of skin contact. Medium-bodied, with a bare and tantalizing hint of sweetness that plays on the palate, that set off nicely by crisply balancing acidity. Opens with aromas and flavors of raspberries, goes on to reveal notes of dried citrus, glazed pears and a light spicy note. Well balanced and elegant. Drink now-2013. NS 75. Score 90. (Tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Gewurztraminer, 2010: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Lightly off-dry but with fine acidity keeping the wine lively and refreshing. Opens to show traditional Gewurztraminer aromas and flavors of rosewater and litchis, those complemented nicely by notes of green apples, ripe pears and green almonds. Lingers long and comfortably. Drink now-2014. NIS 85. Score 90. (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2011)

The Red Wines

Pelter, “I”, 2008: The new flagship wine of the winery, a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in approximately equal parts, those aged in French oak, deeply extracted, opening with raspberries and chocolate on the nose, going on to a complex array of aromas and flavors, among which currants, plums, black olives and citrus peel. Despite the blend not so much a Bordeaux wine as a deeply elegant wine with a distinctly Mediterranean note. Full-bodied and concentrated, needs time for its elements to come together. Approachable now but best from mid-2012-2018, perhaps longer. Score 94. (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Pinot Noir, T-Selection, 2009: Dark cherry red toward garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins. Soft and round, with wild berry and blueberry fruits coming together nicely with hints of toasty oak. Supple, well balanced and concentrated with a long and generous finish, that with an appealing note of bitter almonds. Drink now-2016. Score 92. (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Pinot Noir, T-Selection, 2008: A robust and concentrated wine, medium- to full-bodied, deep garnet in color, with generous soft and gently caressing tannins. On first attack wild berries and black cherries fruits, those yielding to notes of blueberries, white pepper and a note of garrigue. From mid-palate on appealing notes of cinnamon and freshly cut herbs. A captivating and distinctly Mediterranean wine. Drinking nicely now but best from 2012-2016. NIS 140. Score 92.

Pelter, Pinot Noir, T-Selection, 2006: Dark cherry-red toward garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with a generous 14.5% alcohol content, but don’t let that throw you off because all is here in fine balance and with enviable structure. Ripe and distinctive in flavor, with blackberry, currant, raspberry and floral aromas and flavors supported by minerals and a hint of raw beef all coming together beautifully with delicate spices. A multi-layered and complex wine. Drink now–2014. Score 92. (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Shiraz-Grenache, T-Selection, 2009 (Advance Tasting): As always a blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Grenache, developed in French oak for 14 months. Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied (leaning to the full) and gently tannic, opens with a red fruit nose. On the nose and palate a generous array of cherry and rhubarb fruits, those complemented nicely by notes of green Madagascar peppercorns. Finely tuned balance between wood, acidity and fruits leads to a long and harmonious finish. Drink from release-2016, perhaps longer. Score 90. (Tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Shiraz-Grenache, T-Selection, 2008: A blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Grenache, oak-aged in primarily French barriques. Showing dark ruby toward garnet in color, with soft tannins and gentle spicy oak notes in fine balance with red currant and wild berry fruits. Smooth, round and, on the long finish hints of cigar tobacco and Mediterranean herbs. Drink now–2015. NIS 140. Score 90. (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Shiraz-Grenache, T-Selection, 2006: Opens with a hint of iodine but that blows off quickly to reveal a black fruit nose. .Deep garnet with a hint of clearing at the rim, medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins and reflecting its 14 months in oak with a gentle spicy touch. Supple and graceful, showing cherry, blueberry and pomegranate fruits all on a background of white pepper and on the finish hints of leather and star anise. Drink now–2014. NIS 190. Score 93. (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Trio, 2009: A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% each of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Garnet toward royal purple, gently tannic, reflecting its 14 months in French oak with notes of lead pencils and vanilla. On the nose and palate blackberries, blueberries and cassis, those complemented by notes of roasted herbs and earthy minerals. Tannins and fruits rise nicely on the long finish. Drink now-2014, perhaps longer. NIS 75. Score 90. (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Trio, 2008: Dark cherry red towards garnet, a medium- to full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Reflects its oak-aging with notes of sweet and spicy wood, showing soft tannins and lively acidity. Opens to show aromas and flavors of currants, red and black berries and, on the long finish, notes of a bouquet garni of dried herbs. Drink now–2013. Score 90. (Re-tasted 20 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, with soft, gently caressing tannins and showing dark, youthful royal purple in color. Opens with a red fruit nose goes on to reveal currant, blackberry and licorice aromas and flavors and on the long, velvety finish a hint of smoky oak. Best from mid-2012-2016, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, 2008: Dark youthful garnet toward royal purple, a big full-bodied wine, one that is ripe, soft, round and well focused. On first attack blackberries and plums, those followed by notes of licorice, smoke and spices. Fine soft tannins and gentle wood integrating beautifully. Drink now–2017. NIS 95. Score 91. (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, 2007: An earlier tasting note holds firmly with the exception of an additional point. Dark garnet in color, with generous spicy wood in fine balance with soft tannins and fruits. Full-bodied, opening with notes of spicy wood and black fruits, those yielding in the glass to wild berries, red currants and earthy minerals, all on a background that hints gently of cigar tobacco and licorice. Long and mouth-filling. Drink now–2015. Score 92. (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Cabernet Franc, T-Selection, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Dark ruby toward garnet, full-bodied with still firm tannins that need time to integrate. On the nose black fruits and freshly tanned leather, and on the palate currants, freshly picked Mediterranean herbs and earthy minerals. Even now showing fine depth and length. This one will be approachable on release but best only from 2013-2019, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 92-94. (Tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Cabernet Franc, T-Selection, 2008: Having lost the first flush of youth and with its elements now coming together beautifully. Dark cherry red toward garnet, full bodied, and with gently gripping tannins opens in the glass to reveal aromas and flavors of blackberries, blueberries and red currants, those on a background of cigar tobacco and roasted herbs. Finishes with an appealing earthy-mineral overlay. Approachable and enjoyable now but best from mid-2012-2018. NIS 160. Score 92. (Re-tated 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Cabernet Franc, T-Selection, 2007: Dark ruby towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied (leaning to the full), reflecting its 14 months in French oak with now well integrated, gently chewy tannins and a note of spicy oak. On the nose and palate blueberries, blackberries, raspberries and freshly picked herbs. On the long finish tannins rise along with a tempting note of milk chocolate. NIS 180. Drink now-2014. Score 92. (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon, T-Selection, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Deep youthful royal purple in color, destined for 20 months of oak aging, full-bodied, with soft but pleasingly chewy tannns. On first attack blackberries and currants, those parting to make way for aromas and flavors of blackberries, plums and wild berries, those on a lightly spicy background. A graceful, multi-layered and complex wine that lingers on and on. Approachable on release but best from 2013-2020. Tentative Score 92-94. (Tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon, T-Selection, 2008: Showing every bit as well as at barrel tastings and if I had to find a single descriptor for this wine that word would be "scrumptious". As noted earlier, full-bodied, dark garnet in color, with soft, gently caressing tannins and notes of spicy wood in fine balance with fruits. On first attack black and red berries and chocolate, those yielding comfortably to blackcurrants and notes of mint and freshly clipped Mediterranean herbs. Long and generous. Best from 2012–2018. NIS 140. Score 94. (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon, T-Selection, 2007: Garnet toward royal purple, full-bodied, with silky smooth tannins integrating beautifully. Powerful and concentrated but not at all a “blockbuster.” Opens with blackcurrant and berry fruits, those yielding to notes of ripe plums and, from first sip to the long finish, notes of raisins, earthy minerals and anise. Ripe and supple. Drink now–2017. Score 92. (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, Petit Verdot, T-Selection, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Super-dark garnet, a rich, concentrated wne opening with currants, blackberries and mocha, going on to show notes of bittersweet chocolate and, on the long, long finish notes of anise and candied ginger. Approachable on release but far better to give this one the time it needs to show its smooth and polished elegance. Best 2013-2019. Score 93. (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2011)

Pelter, T-Selection Petit Verdot, 2008: Super-dark garnet, oOak-aged for 14 months, full-bodied, with fine concentration and gently mouth-coating tannins and notes of sweet and spicy cedar. On first attack blackcurrants and blackberries, those yielding comfortably to notes of purple plums and citrus peel and, to add to its charms, underlying hints of ripe Kalamata olives and a potpourri of Oriental spices. Fruits, wood and acidity in fine balance here, the wine showing a generous and mouth-filling finish on which notes of licorice. Approachable and enjoyable now but best from mid- 2012–2019. Score 93. (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2011)









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[Joel D Parker]

In the quite near future the winery will also release its new flagship wine, “I”, that from the 2008 vintage.
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Well, if the quality of their other wines is an indication, the "I" is bound to be good, but please, don't we already have a horribly named flagship wine of an Israeli winery with just one letter???? Do Israelis get a kick out of one-latin-letter names in ways I have not been told about? I thought after the movie "O" came out purportedly representing Shakespeare's "Othello", the world of culture decided letters don't make good titles...

Just ranting here in the morning...

[Raanan BI]

Chapeau!!!

Once again, my personal favorite winemaker succeeds in creating a great variety of wonderful wines.
I love this winery for so many reasons. It starts with the people - a charming and humble couple - Tal makes the wines and Ein-bar makes the cheeses... (I'm bought... That's the name of my first daughter... )
Then, of course, there's the wine. For a relatively small winery, Tal produces such an interesting variety of wines from a so many different grapes, and I have yet to taste a wine of his that was not tasty!... Ever round and balanced, precision at it's best!
And, on top of it all, the winery - Tal and Ein-bar, Efrat and all the staff - is mostly welcoming, and this coming Saturday, between 12:00-17:00, they're having an open house at the old winery in Moshav Tzofit. Here's the invitation:
http://cp.responder.co.il/content/297b6 ... tation.jpg
Little bird mentioned having all their whites for tasting, along with Trio and some T-Selection (I think that bird said 2008 Pinot and Shiraz-Granache, and 2007 CS...).
They will also be hosting the Tzuk Farm with their products, and this should be a beautiful Shabat!!!

Sooo...
Those of you who are not due to labor this weekend - this should be a great event (yo, Joel, Kfar Saba's hospital is just nearby - in case... But if I was the one missing this event, I'd be ranting well past the morning...).

As to the "I" - Joel, I couldn't agree more, but...
First - I heard about Pelter I before Ella Valley decided on their "E"...
They just released it earlier...
Tal reckons it's best kept until it's ready for drinking in the winery, so you can buy it now (I think for 210 NIS), but Hashaka will be sometime in the fall, so they say...
Maybe by then they'll change the name...

C U Saturday,
Raanan.

P.S. A later note:
I didn't ask, and therefore don't know, if this event is exclusively for the winery's "members" (mailing list) or open to the public.
As opposed to Clos de Gat and Ella Valley, to mention two that are unvailing wines this weekend, and have strictly mentioned in their invitations that it's a close event for members only (invitations were for two each...) - the Pelters haven't regarded this issue.
My guess is, having met the people, that it's open and every wine lover is welcome, but since you can't take that for granted, my suggestion is to contact Efrat or Tair at the phone number listed in the invitation and ask or let them know you're interested.

[Jonathan Kalman]

Pelter don't just make good wine, they sell it at a fair price. Many other Israeli wineries could learn from this example.

[Raanan BI]

Hi all,
yesterday's event was another example of the warm and welcoming hospitality of this winery.
Personally, though, the wines up for tasting were not amonst my favorites of Pelter.

One important comment from the winemaker:
The Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 T-Selection that was there for tasting came only from magnum bottles; According to Tal, the wine in regular sized bottles is passing a numb phase, and should not be openned for a year or better yet - two years...
In magnums, however, the wine is just fine as ever.
Me, I was sorry to hear that only after having openned two bottles recently, then wonderring what had happened to that superb wine I rememberred...

[Daniel Kovnat]

Sorry for the delayed "response" to your post, Raanan, but I am asking myself, why should there be a difference in the quality of the same wine bottled in 750 ml bottles vs the larger magnum? Is this difference a generalization for all wines, or a specific instance with this wine in particular?

I'd be interested to hear what those with more knowledge and a wider background than I have to say.

Dan Kovnat

[Daniel Rogov]

Daniel, Hi....

When bottling fine wines in large format, several conditions may appear. First though, the wine should be neither "better" nor '"worse". It is, after all precisely the same wine. In large formats however, the wine will (and logically should) appear a bit more closed after bottling, the large format meant to hold back the immediate charms of the wine, to encourage the large format bottle to develop more slowly over time. That may indeed reflect some differences (more tannic, somewhat more closed, somewhat diminished flavors at first). The point though is for those to develop more slowly, for the wine to be able to mature at a different rate than the wine in the standard bottle, and, of course to cellar for a longer period of time.

Best
Rogov