Loire Valley Chenin Blanc: A Tasting at Giaconda

[Daniel Rogov]

Let's face it…yesterday was a heckuva day. Started my morning at a Loire Valley tasting of various Chenin Blanc wines at Giaconda; from there to a tasting of Recanati wines and lunch at Coffee Bar; from there to a tasting of 2005 Bordeaux wines; then to a thankfully light dinner out at one of my favorite neighborhood bistros, that taken with draft beer. As often I say, it's a hell of a life but somehow I am more than willing to continue.

To the point, my tasting yesterday at Giaconda was a most rewarding one. The two women who run this show may not be the largest importers in the country but by heaven they continue to bring in a collection of truly fine offerings, those most frequently most reasonably priced.

Yesterday's tasting was entirely of Chenin Blanc wines from France's Loire Valley. I'l not comment here in depth on Chenin Blanc but will hold that for a longer column in HaAretz. For today I will simply let my tasting notes speak for themselves. My thanks to Anat and Rafaella for their usual warm greeting, a fine tasting and several good espresso coffees that followed.

Best
Rogov

Domaine Bourillon d'Orleans, Vouvray, l'Indigene, Loire, 2005: Dry Chenin Blanc at its brightest and flintiest best. In addition to flinty minerals (think of that please as gun-flint), showing appealing lime, grapefruit peel and almond notes, all lively and fresh with its gripping acidity yielding on the finish to a light creamy note that cannot help but please. A wine guaranteed to make you smile comfortably. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 135. Score 90. (Re-tasted 4 Jul 2010)

Domaine des Baumard, Savenierres, Clos de Papillon, Loire, 2005: If it is minerality that pleases this Chenin Blanc is absolutely packed with flint, quartz and marble, those yielding comfortably to notes of pears, melon and green apples. Medium-bodied, with lively acidity and a long finish. Drink now-2013. NIS 171. Score 91. (Tasted 4 Jul 2010)

Domaine de Closel, Savennieres, Les Clos de Papillon, Loire, 2005: When one talks about "blockbuster wines" one almost invariably refers to reds, but here, by heaven is a white blockbuster. Full-bodied and with ginger and pepper flavored butter on first attack, that making way for notes of ripe peaches and apricots as well as notes of litchis. Plenty of balancing acidity to this bright golden wine to keep it lively and, on the long finish a generous hint of Georgia-style boiled peanuts. Enchanting and delicious. Drink now-2014. NIS 207. Score 92. (Tasted 4 Jul 2010)

Domaine Nicolas Joly, Savennieres, Clos de la Coulee de Serrant, Les Vieux Clos en Savennieres, Loire, 2006: As a leader in the biodynamic movement in winemaking Nicolas Joly may be stark raving mad or he may be the sanest man among us. Whatever, his wines are always of interest and not infrequently superb. A super-rich wine, deep golden towards orange, even with a hint of broze, opening on the nose and palate to reveal notes of cardamom (call that hehlif you speak either Hebrew or Arabic) and ginger those supported comfortably by lively acidity that highlights peach, apricot and quince fruits. Starts and finishes with deep aromas of heather and spring flowers. Not so much a wine to match with food but as a contemplation wine to be taken quietly with a fine cigar or, entirely at your discretion, a toke or two from a cigarette made from the herb formally known as cannabis sativa. Drink now-2014. Score 92. (Tasted albeit without a toke on 4 Jul 2010)

Domaine de Closel, Les Clos de Papillon, Cuvee Speciale, Loire, 2003: With fine balance between sweetness and acidity, a plump white showing a tempting array of apples, summer fruits, cantaloupe melon and quince, all on a background of Demerara sugar. Long and generous. Drin now-2015. NIS 157. Score 92. (Tasted 4 Jul 2010)

Domaine Bourillon d'Orleans, Vouvrey, Art Monia, Moelleux, Loire, 2003. Light gold in color, medium-bodied, filling the mouth nicely with its finely honed sweeness set off comfortably by natural acidity. On the nose and palate figs and white peaches, those complemented by notes of cloves and cinnamon and, rising from mid-palate on a clear note of maple syrup. Fine with cold goose liver dishes, with fruit-tarts or as an after-dinner contemplation wine. Drink now-2015. NIS 126. Score 91. (Tasted 4 Jul 2010)

Domaine des Baumard, Cotreaux de Layon, Carte d'Or, Loire, 2005: Showing an abundance of botrytis funk, that set off handsomely by generous sweetness and lively acidity. On the nose and palate bitter oranges, quince, green almonds and citrus peel, all on a mineral-rich background. Round and generous with a delicious bitter-sweet finish that lingers on and on. Drink now-2018. NIS 117. Score 92. (Tasted 4 Jul 2010)

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume, Loire, 2006: Rich and generously sweet with clear botrytis impact and fine minerality and acidity to bring the wine into ideal balance. On first attack oranges and papaya, those yielding to grapefruit peel and mangoes. On the long finish hints of candied ginger and persimmons. For lack of a better word – beatiful. Drink now-2020. NIS 337. Score 94. (Tasted 4 Jul 2010)

[Lior Yogev]

Thanks for the notes.

As for the pot-pairing recommendation, one might even see a slight reference to the late Michael Jackson (not the singer, of course). Anyway, a good little provokation is never bad for business

Smiling,
Lior.