Sommelier 2009 - Many Israeli Tasting Notes (K and Non-K)

[Daniel Rogov]

This year's Sommelier wine exhibition, open primarily to the trade, was a rousing success and I gladly offer congratulations to Avi Ben Ami for a trade fair very well organized and managed. Even a curmudgeon such as myself found absolutely nothing about which to be unhappy. The stands of both the wineries and the importers were well and intelligently staffed; many wineries offered much of the very best that they have to sample; the atmosphere was one that was warm and friendly and, for the most part, thoroughly professional. Be there no question – if there is any trade fair within Israel that must be visited, this is the one!

From yet another point of view, Sommelier is good for the Israeli wine trade both here and abroad. During my two days at the event I was interviewed by CBS, NBC, PBS, the BBC and France's Channel 4.

Because time at such events is limited, my tasting policy was to restrict myself almost entirely to red Israeli wines At the stands of the smaller wineries I tasted literally everything that was available. At the stands of the larger and mid-sized wineries, each of which I will be visiting within the next four months, I restricted myself to tasting anywhere from 1 – 5 wines. That was the only way to survive for me and even then after two very long and rewarding days, I managed to taste only a few of the foreign wines being offered by importers and distributors. Some of those wines were very fine indeed. My loss, hopefully to be compensated for in future tastings.

Whatever, following is a sampling of my tasting notes of Israeli wines made during the two day fair. My apologies for a very long post but with the hope that these may be of use to many.

Best
Rogov


Yiftah’el

Founded in 1999 in the community of Alon Hagalil in the Upper Galilee, owner-vintners Tzvika Ofir and Avner Sofer rely on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Shiraz, Mourvedre and Sangiovese grapes from their own vineyards. Current production is about 10,000 bottles annually.

Yiftah'el, Petite Sirah, Limited Reserve, 2006: Developed in barriques for 12 months, ruby towards garnet in color, medium bodied, with soft tannins and showing appealing plum, cherry and cassis fruits, those supported by light spicy notes. Somewhat light and acidic for a Petite Sirah but a good quaffer. Drink now. Score 85. (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Yiftah'el, Merlot, 2005: Light garnet in color, a pleasant lightly oaked country-style wine. Medium-bodied, with a red berry-cassis personality, the fruits complemented by notes of spicy cedar wood. Drink up. Score 80. (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Yiftah'el, Young Sangiovese, 2009: This of this as an "Israel nouveau", ruby red in color, light- to medium-bodied, showing pleasant raspberry and strawberry fruits. Best to serve quite young, nicely chilled as a wine to quaff in large mouthfuls. Nothing complex here but fun to drink. Drink now or in the next nine months. Score 84. (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Yiftah'el, Sangiovese-Shiraz, 2005: A blend of 40% Sangiovese and 60% Shiraz, oak aged for 12 months. Medium-bodied, with a low nose but appealing red and black berry and black cherry fruits on a lightly spicy and leathery background. A good quaffer. Drink now. Score 84. (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)


Ben-Shoshan

Established by agronomist Yuval Ben-Shoshan on Kibbutz Bror Hail in the northern Negev Desert, this winery released its first wine from the vintage of 1998. Desert-raised grapes include Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and other grapes are drawn from the area of Kerem Ben Zimra in the Galilee. The winery produces wines in two series, Kfar Shamai and Avdat. Production is currently about 10,000 bottles annually.

Ben-Shoshan, Merlot, Avdat, 2007: Garnet but, despite its youth, already showing hints of browning. Opens with a medicinal aroma, showing minimal fruits and a far too earthy overlay. Drink up Score 72. (Tasted twice with consistent notes 2 Nov 2009)

Ben-Shoshan, Merlot, Kfar Shamai, 2006: Dark ruby in color, medium-bodied, opens with a medicinal note but that blows off in the glass to reveal raspberry and cassis notes, those on a background of earthy minerals. Chunky tannins give the wine a distinct country style. Drink now. Score 79. (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Ben-Shoshan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Avdat, 2007: Dark garnet in color, reflecting its 18 months in oak with spicy and smoky notes. Opens in the glass to reveal wild berry and black cherry fruits. Somewhat one dimensional but an acceptable quaffer. Drink now. Score 81. (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Ben-Shoshan, Shiraz, Kfar Shamai, 2007: Dark garnet, full-bodied, with firm and chunky, country-style tannins that add a somewhat coarse note. Opens in the glass to show black fruits on an earthy-mineral background. Drink now. Score 80. (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)


Terra Nova

A winery new to me. Located on Moshav Kanaf on the Golan Heights, the winery released its first wines from the 2007 vintage. With four partners, among them Gil Sharon acting as winemaker, the winery has its own vineyards at Tel Phares on the Golan. Those with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah grapes. Production has grown from 3,000 bottles in 2007 to 4,500 in 2008 and, 5,500 in 2009.

Terra Nova, Syrah, 2007: Dark ruby towards garnet, medium-, perhaps medium- to full-bodied, opening with a chocolate and berry rich nose, going on to reveal soft, gently grippig tannins in fine balance with light toasty oak and red currant and wild berry fruits all on a lightly spicy background. Drink now-2011. Score 87. (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Terra Nova, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Garnet, with purple reflections, medium-bodied, reflecting its 12 months oak with caressing tannins and opening on the nose to show traditional Cabernet currant and backberry fruits, those complemented by notes of fresh herbs. Drink now-2011. Score 87. (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Terra Nova, Breisheit, 2007: Dark garnet, a blend of 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Syrah. Oak-aged for 12 months, showing notes of near-sweet cedar wood, wild berries and currants. Soft, round and generous. Drink now-2011. Score 88. (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)


Amram

Founded in 2001 on Moshav Ramot Naftaly in the Upper Galilee by grape grower Amram Azulai and his son Ohad, the team has vineyards of Cabernet, Merlot, Shiraz and Sangiovese grapes in Emek Kadesh. Production from 2004 was 2,800 bottles and current releases are of about 6,000 bottles annually. The winery releases three series—the barrique-aged Premium and Bresheit (literally “Genesis”) and Ramot Naftaly, the wines of which are made in large glass containers together with oak chips. Dramatic changes from tasting to tasting in several of the wines tasted lead one to believe that multiple bottlings may have been made.

Amram, Merlot, Breisheit, 2007: Garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, reflecting 12 months oak-aging with gently gripping tannins and notes of spicy wood. On the nose and palate blackberries, black cherries and hints of Oriental spices. Drink now-2011. Score 85. (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Amram, Cabernet Sauvignon, Breisheit, 2007: A wine that seems to have gone wrong somewhere my first tasting and this one, opening now with distinct notes of wet cardboard and half-dry cement, showing a good deal of volatile acidity and not much in the way of fruits. Score 68. (Re-tasted twice with consistent notes 2 Nov 2009) (IMPORTANT: See the updated tasting note for this wine at viewtopic.php?f=29&t=28209 )

Amram, Cabernet Sauvignon, Premium, 2007: Premium, Cabernet Sauvigjon, 2007: Aged in barriques for 18 months, showing generous but soft tannins and a gentle overlay of spicy oak. Medium- to full-bodied, opens to show appealing currant and berry notes, those supported nicely by notes of licorice and tar. Drink now-2011. Score 87. (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Sarig

Another winery new to me. Established in 2005 on Moshav Merchavia by Pini Sarig, with Amir Sarig serving as winemaker. Relying on Syrah, Mourvedre and Grenache Noir grapes, current production is about 4,000 bottles annually.

Sarig, Shiraz, 2006: Oak-aged for 12 months, with spicy but soft tannins and hints of vanilla from the wood. Medium- to full-bodied, a smooth, round wine opening to show plum and wild berry fruits, those supported nicely by notes of saddle leather and tobacco Long and mouth-filling. Drink now-2011. A fine first release by the winery. Score 88. (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)


Gvaot

Founded by Shivi Drori and Amnon Weiss on Shiloh in the Shomron region, with vineyards at an altitude of 700–900 meters above sea level, this boutique winery released its first wines from the 2005 vintage. Production in 2005 was for 5,000 bottles and current production is about 15,000 bottles annually, those of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay grapes. The winery is currently releasing wines in three series, Gofna Reserve, Masada and Herodion.

Gvaot, Merlot, Herodion, 2007: Blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, oak-aged for 12 months, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, caressing tannins and appealing blackcurrant and black cherry fruits, a generous and near-elegant wine with a long, licorice-hinted finish. Drink now–2011. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Gvaot, Herodion, 2008 (Advance Tasting): A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc. Showing dark ruby toward garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins that caress gently, a round and elegant wine opening with red plum and red currant fruits, those yielding to black cherries and blackberries, the fruits supported nicely by notes of bitter-sweet chocolate and, on the long finish a hint of Oriental spices. Drink from release-2014. Score 90. K (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Chateau Golan

A fully modern winery located on Moshav Eliad on the Golan Heights, Chateau Golan released their first wines from the 2000 vintage under the hand of Oregon and California-trained winemaker Uri Hetz. Vineyards owned by the winery currently yield Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Grenache, Sauvignon Blanc, Mourvedre, Rousanne, Grenache Blanc and Viognier grapes. Production is currently between 70,000–75,000 bottles and future production is estimated at somewhat over 100,000 bottles annually. The winery releases wines in one series, Royal Reserve, that including the proprietary blend known as Eliad. To the winemaker's credit, my tasting notes from my re-tastings at the exhibit hold firmly from my earlier notes.

Chateau Golan, Geshem Red, Royal Reserve, 2007: Aged in large oak barrels, plenty of alcohol here, but that showing neither heat nor sweetness as it is in fine balance with spicy wood, near-sweet tannins and fruits. Full-bodied, rich and deep, showing almost incense-like anise notes and then opening to reveal berry, black cherry and currant fruits. A blend of 70% Grenache with 15% each of Mourvedre and Syrah, oak-aged for 13 months, with a tempting liquoreux finish. Drink now–2015. Score 91. (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Chateau Golan, Merlot, Royal Reserve, 2007: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. A full-bodied blend of 86% Merlot, 9% Petite Sirah and 5% Syrah. Oak-aged for 13 months, calling to mind the 2001 release from the winery, both being deeply extracted, muscular and intense. Generous soft tannins along with notes of near-sweet cedarwood in fine balance with blackberry, raspberry and cassis fruits, those on a background of licorice and bittersweet chocolate. Tannins and a note of toasty oak rise on the long finish. A powerhouse, but one with grace. Drink now–2014. Score 90. (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Chateau Golan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Royal Reserve, 2007: A medium- to full-bodied blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% each Cabernet Franc and Syrah, and a 1% smidgeon (I always wanted to use that word in a tasting note) of Petite Sirah. Deep garnet and reflecting its 12 months in oak with gently mouth-coating tannins. Opens to show appealing aromas and flavors of blackberries, blackcurrants and violets, and, on the generous finish, a gentle hint of bittersweet chocolate. Drink now–2014. Score 90. (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Chateau Golan, Eliad, 2007: 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot and 4% Merlot. Almost inky dark in color, a distinctly Old World wine in its elegance. On first attack blackberries and black cherries, those yielding comfortably to notes of toasty oak and bittersweet chocolate, and, on the long finish, as we have come to know with this wine, hints of olives and Mediterranean herbs. Not at all a “blockbuster” but that’s just as well, for given time this one will indeed show elegance. Best 2011–2016, perhaps longer. Score 90. (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Assaf

Founded in 2004 by Assaf Kedem, , the winery is located in the village of Kidmat Tzvi on the Golan Heights. Draws on its own vineyards, those containing Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Shiraz, Zinfandel, Pinotage and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. Production from the 2007 vintage was 25,000 bottles and anticipated production from the 2008 harvest is 35,000 bottles. Wines are bottled in a reserve and a regular series. The same wines sometimes bottled under the Lili label are intended entirely for export.

Assaf, Shiraz, 2007: Developed in barriques for 15 months and, as seems to be the winemaker's wont, blended with 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium- to full-bodied, showing still grippig tannins and generously spicy wood but those in fine balance with acidity and fruits, thus boding well for the future. On the nose and palate generous red plum and raspberry notes, those yielding comfortably to darker fruits, especially backberries. A concentrated but elegant wine. Needs a bit of time. Best from 2011-2015. Score 91. (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Assaf, Cabernet Sauvigon, 2007: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Medium- to full-bodied, reflecting its 11 months in oak with gentle notes of sweet cedar and vanilla and soft, well-integrated tannins. On the nose and palate red and black berries and cassis, those complemented nicely by notes of minted chocolate. On the long, mouth-filling finish a hint of red licorice. Drink now–2013. Score 91. (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Assaf, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2007: Showing every bit as well as at barrel tastings. Blended with 7% Cabernet Franc, full-bodied, with soft, almost plush tannins and showing generous currant and cherry fruits, those supported nicely by hints of spicy wood, eucalyptus and bittersweet chocolate. Drink now-2013, perhaps longer. Score 91. (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)


Kitron

Founded by Maeir Bitoen and set on Kibbutz Ma’abarot, not far from the city of Hadera, and drawing on Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot grapes from the Upper Galilee, the Golan Heights and the Judean Hills, this boutique winery released its first wines from the 2006 vintage, when production was about 14,000 bottles. Production from 2007 and 2008 was about 25,000 bottles for each year. Wines are released only in a reserve series.

Kitron, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, Lika, Reserve, 2007: A blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot and 22% Shiraz and , showing dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with somewhat chunky tannins that give the wine a countrified quality. Opens to reveal generous currant, plum and blackberry fruits, those on a lightly spicy background, spicy oak and tannins rising on the finish. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Kitron, Shiraz, Reserve, 2007: Showing considerably better than at barrel tastings. Garnet towards royal purple, with its generous wood and tannins now settling in comfortably and opening to show blackberry and black cherry fruits, those on a background of Mediterranean herbs and green olives. A bit of coarseness but that does not stop this from being a rewarding country-style wine. Drink nowor in the next year or so. Score 85 K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Kitron, Merlot, Reserve, 2006: My most recent tasting note holds firmly. Blended with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and oak aged for 14 months. Dark ruby toward garnet, medium- to full-bodied, smooth and spicy with ripe berry, cherry and chocolate flavors, with tannins and hints of sweet cedar wood rising on the finish. Drink now–2011. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Kitron, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Full-bodied, with gently gripping tannins and notes of spicy oak in fine balance with currants, blackberries and spicy aromas yielding to black cherry, roasted herbs and espresso flavors. Tannins and fruits rise on the finish. Drink now–2011. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Kitron, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2007: Dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with somewhat generous spicy and smoky wood and chunky, country-style tannins. Opens in the glass to show black fruits, those on a somewhat muddled background of cloves, cinnamon and chocolate. Drink now. Score 84. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Ben-Zimra

Founded by vintner Yossi Ashkenazi on Moshav Ben Zimra in the Upper Galilee this boutique winery has been producing two wines, a reserve and a regular edition of Cabernet Sauvignon since 2003. The winery’s vineyards, near the moshav at 870 meters above sea level, are among the best in Israel. Current production is about 14,000 bottles annually, and the winery is planning on growing to a capacity of 20,000 bottles.

Ben-Zimra, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2007: Oak aged for about 14 months, dark and deep, medium- to full-bodied with good concentration. Somewhat rustic with a touch of heat on the finish, but showing appealing currant, black cherry and berry fruits with hints of anise and spring flowers. Drink now-2011. Score 85. (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Ben-Zimra, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008: Oak-aged for nine months, ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and showing raspberry, cherry and cassis, those supported by hints of green olives, with the tannins rising on the medium-long finish. Drink now. Score 85. (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)


Domaine Ventura

The Domaine de Ventura was founded in 2006 by David Ventura and is located in the community of Ofra. Annual production is about 4,000 bottles, those based on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot grapes.

Domaine Ventura, Reubens, 2007: A Bordeaux blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, and 7% each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins waiting to integrate and opening slowly in the glass to reveal currants and wild berries on a background that hints of raisins and milk chocolate. Drink now. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Domaine Ventura, Aarons 2007: A blend of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Oak-agedfor 18 months, showing dark garnet in color, with somewhat chunky tannins parting to reveal currant, raspberry and plum fruits on a lightly spicy background. Drink now. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Domaine Ventura, Merlot, 2007: Opens with a somewhat medicinal aroma but that blows off quickly. Dark garnet with orange reflections, medium- to full-bodied, with silk soft tannins integrating nicely. On the nose and palate berry, black cherry and cassis, those supported nicely by notes of bitter-sweet chocolate and a hint of green olives Drink now-2011. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Domaine Ventura Cabernet Sauvignon, Grand Vin, Limited Edition Haute Judée-Samarie, 2007: Opens with a light medicinal aroma that never quite blows off but does allow the black fruits and notes of tobacco and freshly turned earth to make themselves felt Medium-bodied,with country-style tannins. Drink now. Score 83. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Yaffo

Founded in 1998 by Moshe and Anne Celniker and today with their winery located in the Ella Valley, winemaker Stepane Celniker is currently producing about 16,000 bottles annually. Grapes, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc come from Kibbutz Netiv Halamed Hey in the Jerusalem Hills and from the Upper Galilee.

Yaffo, Merlot, Authentique, 2007: Developed in French and American barriques for 12 months, deep garnet in color, with soft, gently gripping tannins and notes of spicy wood highlighting red currant and wild berry fruits, those complemented by notes of freshly picked herbs and earthy minerals. Long and generous. Drink now-2011. Score 88. (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Yaffo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Authentique, 2007: Blended with 15% Merlot, medium- to full-bodied, dark garnet with purple and orange reflections, with soft tannins and gentle wood integrating nicely. Opens in the glass to reveal traditional Cabernet blackberry, blackcurrant and spicy notes. Lingers nicely. Drink now-2012. Score 89. (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Yaffo, Heritage, 2006: A blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Merlot, reflecting its oak-aging with spices and cinnamon notes, those highlighting black fruits, tobacco and a hint of licorice that comes in on the finish. Long, round and generous. Drink now-2012. Score 89. (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Benhaim

Founded in 1997 on Moshav Kfar Azar in the Sharon region, this family-owned winery is currently producing about 35,000 bottles annually from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Sirah, Chardonnay and Muscat grapes largely from its own vineyards. Under development are vineyards with Shiraz and Traminette, and the winery also produces a Port-style wine. With vineyards now planted on the eastern slopes of Mount Meron in the Upper Galilee, the winery is planning to expand its production to 50,000 bottles. Wines are released in three series—Grande Reserve, Reserve and Tradition—and have been kosher since the 2001 vintage.

Benhaim, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grande Reserve, , 2005: Oak-aged for 28 months, a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petite Sirah. Dark garnet toward royal purple, showing generous toasty wood and firm tannins that yield in the glass to reveal appealing blackberry, currant and citrus peel notes, those on a background of dark chocolate and cigar tobacco. Finishes full, long and round. Drink now–2012, perhaps longer. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Benhaim, Vin Neuf Rouge, 2008: Ruby red, a light-bodied blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot, that with carbon dioxide added to give the wine a light sparkle. With aromas and flavors of raspberries, strawberries and red plums, more of a "shpritz" than a serious wine. Fun, I suppose for those who enjoy this kind of thing. Drink now. Score 80. K (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Benhaim, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Potentially the best wine yet from the winery. Deep garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied, with youthful and still firm tannins and generous but not at all overwhelming wood just starting on the road to integration. Opens to reveal aromas and flavors of raspberries, cherries currants and mint, those turning to dark fruits and spices on what promises to be a velvety texture. Best from 2011. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)


Avidan

Founded in 2000 by Shlomo and Tsina Avidan, this boutique winery is located on Kibbutz Eyal in the Sharon region and relies on Chardonnay, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Grenache, Mourvedre, Carignan, Petite Sirah and Merlot grapes selected from various vineyards in the Upper Galilee, and is currently producing about 30,000 bottles annually. With major expansion and modernization now completed, wines are released in several series—the age-worthy Premium and Reserve wines and the varietal Avidan, and the Blend des Noirs and Petite Soleil, meant for earlier consumption. A relatively new series is "Fringe", that so named because the blends are both playful and unusual.

Avidan, Grenache, Fringe, 2007: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. An unusual but successful blend of 85% Carignan, 10% Tempranillo and 5% Petite Sirah. Medium- to full-bodied, soft and open-textrured, reflecting its 16 months in barriques with soft tannins asd a gentle note of spicy wood. On the nose and palate plum, wild berry and notes of spices that linger nicely. Drink now-2012. Score 89. (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Avidan, Shiraz, Reserve, 2006: Reserve Shiraz, 2006: Made entirely from Shiraz grapes, aged for 16 months in American and French barriques, dark garnet to royal purple in color, full-bodied, with soft, gently caressing tannins, opens with a burst of chocolate and leather. Opens slowly in the glass to reveal aromas and flavors of blackberries, red cherries and peppermint, those leading to a long and supple finish. Bright and effusive at this stage and will show greater complexity as it continues to develop. Drink now–2014. Score 91. (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Avidan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot. Deep royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, mouth-coating tannins and generous black fruits supported by earthy minerals. Oak-aged for 24 months and showing generous spicy wood, along with intriguing tobacco and chocolate aromas and flavors with the fruits rising on the long finish. Drink now–2011. Score 89. (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Avidan, Merlot, Reserve, 2007: Deep, youthful royal purple in color, full-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins and notes of spicy cedar wood, opens to show generous currant, wild berry and purple plum fruits, those complemented by notes of earthy minerals. Best from mid-2010-2015. Score 89. (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Avidan, Petite Sirah, 2007: Dark garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied with still firm tannins and generous wood waiting to integrate but already showing fine balance and structure. On the nose and palate white pepper and wild berries, those matched nicely by cedar wood, spices and, from mid-palate on, blackberry. Quasi-muscular but lovely and long. Best from 2011-2014. Score 90. (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)


Carmel

No need here to go into the history or details of Carmel but just a moment to say that the positive revolution continues – the winery producing a collection of truly fine and increasingly age-worthy wines, especially in its Single Vineyard and Appellation (Regional) series. Sheesh – even the once scorned Private Collection wines are now quite good and well worth trying.

Carmel, Shiraz, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, Upper Galilee, 2006: Deep garnet with hints of royal purple and casting orange and green reflections, a concentrated wine, full-bodied and deeply extracted yet showing re-markably soft tannins and spicy wood that almost melts on the palate. On first attack plums and currants, those making way for black cher-ries, hints of saddle leather and notes of asphalt. On the long and gen-erous finish with tannins rising a comfortable overlay of freshly roasted herbs and cedar wood. Approachable now but what a waste as this one will start showing its best only in 2011. Cellar comfortably until 2017. Score 93. K

Carmel, Carignan, Old Vines, Regional (Appellation), Zichron Ya'akov, 2006: Living fully up to its earlier promise.A super-dark garnet blend of 85% Carignan and 15% Petit Verdot, the Carignan from 35–40-year-old, very low-yield wines with no irrigation. A blockbuster on first attack, but the firm tannins and generous wood settling down nicely to reveal a rich array of plum, red cherry, raspberry and currant fruits all supported nicely by hints of cocoa and spices. Look as well for a generous mocha-rich finish. Drink now–2011. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Carmel, Shiraz, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, Upper Galilee, 2003: Tasted from a magnum format bottle and showing much as the wine did in regular bottles three years ago. Firmly structured when first poured but opening beautifully to show a soft, caressing and very well balanced wine. Generous soft tannins here to highlight blackcurrants, purple plums and blackberries, those highlighted by light notes of anise and earthy minerals. Elegance on the grand scale. Drink now-2016. Score 92. K (Re-tasted from magnum 2 Nov 2009)


Tabor

Founded in 1999 by several grape-growing families in the village of Kfar Tabor in the Lower Galilee, this modern winery draws on white grapes largely from their own vineyards near Mount Tabor and on red grapes from the Upper Galilee. Initial production was of 20,000 bottles and current production is close to 1,000,000 bottles annually. With 800 dunams (about 200 acres) of vineyards coming on line under long-term contracts, additional vineyards in the planning stage, a full-time agronomist now aboard, and the winery undergoing major physical expansion, long-term planning is to raise production to between 3–6 million bottles annually.

European-trained winemaker Arieh Nesher is currently releasing wines in three series. The top-of-the-line label is Mes’cha, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz. A second label, Adama, reflects the type of soils in the vineyards. In reading the labels it may be useful to know that adama translates into soil; gir is chalky soil; terra rossa is red earth; charsit is clay and bazelet refers to volcanic soil. There is also a more basic series released under the label Tabor. In addition to overall high quality the winery has an especially good name for providing wines at excellent value for money.

Tabor, Merlot, Adama, Bazelet, 2007: Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied with a sweet, almost jammy raspberry nose that goes on to show spicy plums, cherries and blackberries, those complemented nicely by spicy cedar notes, with fruits and tannins rising on the finish. Drink now–2012. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Tabor, Merlot, Adama, Gir, 2007: Developed in mostly French oak for 12 months, intensely dark garnet in color, opening with a rich mineral and black fruit nose, going on to show firm but gently caressing tannins on a medium- to full-bodied frame. Opens in the glass to reveal currant, plum and licorice notes and finishes with a generous hint of espresso. Drink now–2013. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Adama, Bazelet, 2007: Dark garnet toward royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, a rich, softly tannic wine showing dried currant, blackberry, sage and herbal notes and, on the finish, notes of minerals and dark chocolate. Drink now–2014. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Adama, Terra Rossa, 2007: Super-dark garnet in color, an aromatic wine, opening with spicy wood and wild berries on the nose. Full-bodied, showing still firm tannins that need a bit of time to settle in, but already revealing red currants, spices, licorice and notes of freshly roasted herbs. Drink now–2014. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Tabor, Mescha, 2005: Holding its own very nicely indeed. Dark garnet with orange and purple reflections, full-bodied with once firm tannins and generous oak now settling in nicely and showing in fine moderation and in fine balance with fruits. A concentrated wine, opening in the glass to reveal red currants, wild berries and red licorice, those with light overlays of herbal and cigar tobacco. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Shiraz and 10% Merlot, aged partly in 2000 liter casks and partly in 225 liter barriques for 18 months. Long, generous and elegant. Drink now–2014. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)


Alexander

Located on Moshav Beit Yitzhak in the Sharon region, the winery, founded in 1996 by Yoram Shalom, receives grapes largely from contract vineyards over which it has full control at Kerem Ben Zimra in the Upper Galilee. Primary output to date has been of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc and now coming on line are Syrah and Grenache.

Growth has been steady, increasing from about 12,000 bottles in 2002 to 45,000 in 2005 and 2006. With the 2006 vintage the winery switched over to kosher production and approximate output since then has been about 45,000–50,000 bottles. In addition to producing two top-of-the-line series, Alexander the Great and Alexander, the winery also releases two blended wines, Sandro and Gaston. In addition, the winery produces private label wines for several restaurants and for export.


Alexander the Great, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grand Reserve, 2004: A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvgnon and 10% each of Merlot and Shiraz. Reflecting its 48 months in new oak barriques (24 months in new oak and then transferred again for another 24 months to new oak) with far too generous smoky and vanilla overlays and gripping tannins, those yielding slowly in the glass to reveal moderate levels of plums, blackberries and currants, all with overlays of mocha and herbs. More powerful and intense than elegant, a distinctly overly oaky wine. Drink now–2011. Score 86. (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Alexander, Cabernet Sauvingon, Mem, 2006: My first tasting of Alexander's private Mem label. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot (80%, 15% and 5% respectively), oak aged for 2 years in new oak. Full-bodied, showing near-sweet tannins and spicy cedar wood, those opening to reveal blackberry, purple plum and cassis, those supported by notes of cigar tobacco. Generous and moderately-long. Drink now-2012. Score 88. K (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Alexander, Amarolo, 2007: A wine that holds a good many mysteries for me, those hopefully to be resolved when I visit the winery in the near future. Whether the name is indicative of Barolo (from Piedmont and made entirely of Nebbiolo grapes) or of Amarone (made in Veneto from a blend of partly dried Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes) for example is not yet known. What is known to me is that the wine is an oak aged blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and as of this tasting (I believe a barrel tasting) indeed showing some of the characteristics of both Barolo and Amarone – that is to say, deeply extracted, full-bodied, deeply tannic and showing black and purple fruits, those with notes of both sweetness and bitterness. I'll need more time with this wine before I can properly evaluate it. (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Tura

Founded in 2003 as Erez Winery by Erez Sadon and renamed in 2005 as Tura , this boutique winery is located in Rehelim in the Shomron and has vineyards on Mount Bracha at an elevation of 840 meters. The winery is currently producing about 8,000 bottles annually, those primarily from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay grapes. Several of the wines are available under both the Erez and Tura labels but large bottle variation indicates that these might be separate bottlings.

Tura, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, with chunky country-style tannins and reflecting its 21 months in oak with sawdust-like notes on the nose and a light medicinal aroma that interferes somewhat with the black fruits that are here. Drink now. Score 78

Tura, Merlot, 2006: Ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and too generous notes of sawdust on the nose and palates and a basic berry personality. Not much here. Drink up. Score 75.

Tura, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes selected from a vineyard at 850 meters of altitude, with 21 months in oak. A medium-dark garnet wine, with a clean black-fruit nose and tannins that have lost their chunkiness since a last tasting and are not showing smooth and gently gripping. On the nose and palate black currants, blackberry and chocolate notes. Drink now. Score 86.

Tura, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2005: Dark garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins. Generous spicy oak here but that in fine balance with tannins, acidity and fruits. On the nose and palate blackberries, currants and wild berries along with a generous hint of bitter-sweet chocolate. Drink now-2011. Score 86.

Tura, Merlot, 2005: A bit confusing for if this is the same wine tasted under the Erez label, showing remarkably better than at an earlier tasting. Aged in new oak for 21 months, a deeply extracted wine, full-bodied with gripping tannins and spicy wood in good balance with blackcurrant, wild berry and licorice notes. Just enough complexity here to grab the attention. Drink now-2010. Score 85.


Kfir

Founded in 2003 by Meir Kfir in the village of Gan Yavne on the southern Coastal Plain, this small winery was originally known as Gefen Adderet and changed its name to Kfir in 2006. Although producing only about 6,500 bottles annually, the winery releases a large variety of labels, those from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Malbec, Viognier, Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay grapes from the vineyards of Karmei Yosef, the Jerusalem Mountains and the Galilee.

Kfir, Gewurztraminer, 2008: Light straw colored, medium-bodied, with fine balancing acidity, showing not so much traditional Gewurztraminer litchi and spices but with appealing peach, pear and citrus that make for a not-at-all traditional but quite pleasant wine. Drink now. Score 85. (Tasted 3 Nov 2009)

Kfir, Syrah-Petite Sirah, 2006: Dark garnet toward royal purple in color, its once youthful spicy wood and gripping tannins now integrated nicely and showing blackberry, purple plum and black cherry fruits. Spicy, long and generous. Drink now. Score 86. (Re-tasted 3 Nov 2009)

Kfir, Zohara, 2006: A light- to medium-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvigon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petite Sirah. Medium-dark garnet, with soft tannins and forward blackberry and blueberry fruits. A pleasant and easy-to-drink entry-level wine. Drink now. Score 84. (Re-tasted 3 Nov 2009)

Kfir, Zohara, 2007: A blend of 34% each Cabernet Sauvigon and 16%each Shiraz and Petite Shirah. Dark garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins, a round and fruity wine showing appealing red and black berries and cassis on a lightly spicy and herbal background. Lingers Nicely. Drink now-2011. Score 86. (Tasted 3 Nov 2009)

Kfir, Syrah-Petite Sirah, 2007: Dark garnet, with generous spicy and smoky wood and still youthful and gripping tannins that need time to integrate but already opening nicely in the glass to reveal blackberry, plum and black cherry fruits on a spicy background. Long and generous. Best from mid-2010-2012. Score 86. (Tasted 3 Nov 2009)



Jascala

A winery new to me. Set in the village of Gush Halav (Jish) in the Upper Galillee, this family owned winery released its first wines from the 2006 vintage. The winery currently relies on Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz grapes from various sources in the Galilee but is in the process of planting its own vineyards. Current production is about 6,500 bottles annually.

Jascala, Merlot, 2006: Garnet with a hint of brick red, medium-bodied, with chunky country-style tannins. Reflecting its 14 months in oak with an appealing spicy overlay and opening to show crushed wild berries and cassis, those complemented by notes of earthy minerals. Drink now. Score 86. (Tasted 3 Nov 2009)

Jascala, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Glistening clear deep garnet in color, medium- perhaps medium- to full-bodied, reflecting its 14 months in barriques with hints of vanilla and spices and gently gripping tannins. Appealing currants and crushed berries along with hints of bitter-sweet chocolate. Drink now. Score 86. (Tasted 3 Nov 2009)

Jascala, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Oak-aged for 18 months, dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating well with not-at-all imposing but well felt notes of spicy and vanilla rich wood. On the nose and palate blackberries, a hint of cassis liqueur and Far-Eastern spices all coming together comfortably. Drink now-2011. Score 89. (Tasted 3 Nov 2009)


Miles

Founded by vintner Eyal Miles in 2001 on Moshav Kerem Ben Zimra in the Upper Galilee, with its own vineyards containing Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurztraminer, this winery is currently producing about 7,000 bottles annually.

Miles, Merlot, 2005: Deep garnet, medium-bodied with soft, mouth-coating tannins and near-sweet oak. A blend of 88% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon opening to reveal blackberry, blueberry and currant fruits, all on a lightly spicy background. Showing very first signs of oxidation. Drink up. Score 84. (Re-tasted 3 Nov 2009)

Miles, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2006: Oak-aged for 18 months, a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Opens with a tarry-medicinal aroma but that blows off in the glass to reveal medium- to full-body and somewhat chunky tannins, those yielding to blackberry, blueberry and citrus peel notes, all on a lightly spicy background. Drink now. Score 85. (Tasted 3 Nov 2009)

Miles, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Showing better than at an earlier tasting. Dark garnet, full-bodied, reflecting its 20 months in partly new, partly used French and American oak with generous spicy wood and somewhat chunky country-style tannins. Firm and closed when first poured but opens in the glass to show traditional blackcurrant and blackberry fruits, those supported by hints of spices and Mediterranean herbs. Drink now. Score 86. (Re-tasted 3 Nov 2009)

Miles, Shiraz Reserve 2007: Best to date from the winery. Full-bodied, concentrated and chewy, opens with freshly crushed raspberries, goes on to reveal red plums, those on a background of white pepper, saddle leather and tobacco. Well balanced and needs a bit of time for its elements to come together. Best from mid-2010-2014. Score 89. (Tasted 3 Nov 2009)


Barkan

The second largest winery in the country and, like each of the other large wineries, making all of the right moves to continue improvements in their vineyards and in the winery and releasing quite a few wines of interest. No need here to go into details…

Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Altitude 412, 2006: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Made primarily from grapes from the Avnei-Eitan vineyard on the Golan Heights, with 10% of the grapes from the Dishon vineyard,oak-aged in French and American oak for 14 months, a medium- to full-bodied red, with gripping tannins and spicy wood in good proportion to blackberry and currant fruits. Faulted only in that it becomes a bit astringent on the finish. Drink now-2012. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 3 Nov 2009)

Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Altitude 412, 2007 (Advance Tasting): A beauty. Dark ruby towards garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins integrating nicely with notes of spicy qua smoky wood and fruits. On the nose and palate traditional Cabernet blackcurrant, blackberry and spices, those complemented nicely by a hint of near-sweet chewing tobacco on the long finish. Drink from release-2013. Score 90. K (Tasted 3 Nov 2009)

Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Altitude 624, 2006: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes harvested in the Upper Galilee's Alma Vineyard. Developed in mostly new French oak barriques for 14 months, showing full-bodied, with soft tannins coming together nicely with cedar wood notes to show off a generous array of currant, wild berry and orange peel fruits, those supported nicely by notes of mocha and, on the long finish, a hint of black licorice. Drink now-2014. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 3 Nov 2009)

Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Altitude 624, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet with purple and orange reflections, a wine that is simultaneously muscular and elegant, its generous soft tannins integrating nicely with spicy and vanilla-rich wood and opening to show currant, blackberry and chocolate notes, those leading to a long finish on which tannins and fruits rise together. Best 2011-2014. Score 90. K (Tasted 3 Nov 2009)

Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Altitude 720, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Youthful royal purple in color, showing still firm tannins and generous spicy wood, those in fine balance with fruits and acidity and merely needing time to integrate. Rich, concentrated and well focused yet elegant and stylish, destined always to be a firm but round wine with spicy red and black currants, anise and cedar wood notes. Give this one some time to show its polish. Best from 2011-2016. Score 91. K (Tasted 3 Nov 2009)


Dalton

Founded by the Haruni family in 1993, this fully modern winery located in the industrial park of Dalton in the Upper Galilee has vineyards in Kerem Ben Zimra and several high altitude sites along the Lebanese border. Australian and Californian-trained winemaker Na’ama Mualem is currently producing wines in seven series, the age-worthy Single Vineyard, Reserve, Safsufa Vineyards and Dalton Estate wines, and the Alma, Dalton and Canaan series, those of similar varieties but which are intended for early drinking.

With the 2006 vintage, a wine under the Matatia label was released, that perhaps destined to become the winery’s flagship wine. Grapes include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Barbera, Zinfandel, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat. First production was 50,000 bottles, current production is about 880,000 and the target for 2010 is one million bottles. Dalton has earned a consistently good name for high quality wines, providing excellent value for money.

Dalton, Cabernet Sauvignon, Single Vineyard, Meron, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, rich and intense but not heavy, showing ripe currants and blackberries, those on a background that hints of sandalwood and cedar and ends with a note of anise. Drink from release-2015, perhaps longer. Score 91. K (Tasted 3 Nov 2009)

Dalton, Shiraz, Reserve, 2007: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Dark garnet in color, opening with an appealing bitter-nutty nose, that going on to show spicy wood and gently mouth-coating tannins. On the palate a generous array of black and purple fruits, those complemented nicely by notes of freshly tanned leather and cigar tobacco. Blended with 5% Viognier. Drink now–2014. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 3 Nov 2009)

Dalton, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2007: Deep garnet towards royal purple, its once firm tannins and generous wood now settling in to show the wine's fine balance and structure. On the nose and palate traditional Cabernet blackcurrant and blackberry fruits, those supported by hints of freshly cured tobacco, licorice and bitter-sweet chocolate. Long and generous and o the finish an appealing hint of green olives. Approachable and enjoyaboe now but best from 2011-2016. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 3 Nov 2009)


Teperberg

What is perhaps most interesting about the Teperberg winery is that although quite a few of their wines are now in the "big leagues", competing comfortably for quality and price with others of the large wineries, the public seems to be lagging somewhat behind in this realization. My advice as a critic: if you have not yet tried some of the wines in their Reserve and Terra series, do so.

Founded in 1870 by the Teperberg family in the Jewish quarter of the old city of Jerusalem, and then relocating outside of the walls, the winery moved to Motza, on the outskirts of the city, in 1964, and there took on the name of Efrat. For much of that time it produced primarily sacramental wines for the ultra-Orthodox community. During the 1990s it also started producing table wines. Starting in 2002, under the supervision of California-trained winemaker Shiki Rauchberger the winery began producing wines destined to appeal to a more sophisticated audience. Now relocated to their newly constructed winery on Kibbutz Tzora at the foothills of the Jerusalem Mountains, the winery has officially changed its name back to Teperberg.

More than a mere change in name and location, the new winery, still partly under construction, now boasts fully modern equipment, a new and very impressive barrel room and increasing control over its vineyards, and is currently producing about 4 million bottles annually. Wines of interest are in the Reserve, Terra and Silver series. The Efrat label has not fully disappeared and may now be considered a sub-label of the winery that includes an Efrat and an Israeli series. With the exception of the wines in the Reserve and Terra series, all of the wines are mevushal. Target production within the next five years is 7 million bottles annually.


Teperberg, Malbec, Terra, 2007: Developed in new French and American oak barriques for 12 months, dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins well balanced by notes of sweet toast and vanilla. On the nose and palate plums, black cherries and notes of cocoa. Not an Argentinean nor a Cahors Malbec, but one with a distinct Mediterranean personality. Drink now. Score 88. K

Teperberg, Terra, Merlot, 2007: Dark garnet, with nicely gripping tannins and a gentle hand with the wood, those in fine balance with blackberries and blueberries. In the background appealing hints of Oriental spices and earthy minerals. Drink now–2011. Score 88. K

Teperberg, Terra, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Traditional Cabernet. Super-dark garnet, with generous gripping tannins and spicy wood integrating nicely to show off black fruits, those with hints of mint and freshly roasted coffee. Drink now–2012. Score 88. K

Tepereberg, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Dark toward inky-garnet, full-bodied, reflecting its 15 months in oak with gentle spices and a hint of smoke, with once firm tannins now settling in and fine balance with wood and fruits. On the nose and palate an appealing array of spicy currant, blackberry, cedar and mineral notes, those with a light hint of anise on the long and generous finish. Holds back a bit when first poured but opens very nicely in the glass. Drink now–2012. Score 89. K

Teperberg, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 (Advance Tasting): A dark, full-bodied and intense wine with still-deep, almost searing tannins, but already showing balance and structure that bode well for the future. Big and broad-shouldered, with blackberry, blackcurrant, fig and mocha notes backed up by hints of lead pencil and cocoa. On the opening aroma and on the long finish a hint of licorice. Generous, with an appealing toasty sensation rising on the finish. Drink now–2013. The best to date from Teperberg. Score 91. K



From Recanati, Yatir and Tishbi, I tasted only one wine each, that not out of animus but because by now my teeth and tongue had been tinged deep purple and I looked more like a cinematic version of Count Dracula after one of his midnight feasts than a more normal mortal and because, if the truth be told, I was rapidly attaining burnout. No fear though, I shall be visiting each of these wineries for extended tastings in the quite near future.

Recanati, Carignan, Old Vines, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Concentrated and powerful, with a licorice undercurrent to the blackcurrant, blackberry and blueberry fruits, those with a generous lacing of spice, pepper and tobacco notes and, on the superbly long finish an earthy minerality that makes itself nicely felt. Destined for glory and in all probability destined to be released as a varietal. Best from 2012. Tentative Score 92-94. (Tasted 3 Nov 2009)

Yatir, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Blended with 15% Petit Verdot and oak aged for 12 months Rich and deeply extracted, with generous blackberry, currant, black cherry and wild berries that are highlighted by mocha, vanilla and cedarwood overtones. Long and elegant. Drink now–2015. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 3 Nov 2009)

Tishbi, Tishbi Brut, 2008: A sparkling wine, made by the method Champenoise and, continuing to surprise me by being made entirely from French Colombard grapes. For many years the sparkling wines of California were made almost entirely from these grapes. That largely changed, however, when Jack Davies of Napa's Schramsberg decided to go, as the French do, for Chardonnay. Fair enough, however, for some California wineries continue to use Colombard as Tishbi has chosen to do. Light golden in color, medium-bodied, with aromas and flavours that hint nicely of toasted white bread and white pepper on a background of peach and apple fruits. Not a long mousse but sharp bubbles that last nicely. Drink now or in the next few years. Score 86. K (Tasted 3 Nov 2009)

And one note of apology, that to Yoram Cohen of Tanya winery, for when I did arrive and was warmly greeted at his stand we were so plagued by a television crew that tasting became impossible. My intent is to invite Yoram to dinner in Tel Aviv and there to do an extended tasting of his wines.

Oh yes....if this humongous post has not done you in, see also my pre-Sommelier tasting notes for the single vineyard wines of Yarden at viewtopic.php?f=29&t=28010


Best
Rogov

[Michael P]

Carmel, Shiraz, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, Upper Galilee, 2006: My earlier tasting note holds firmly except for a one point bump-up in score. Super-dark garnet in color, with a traditional Cabernet nose, a long, round and concentrated wine, medium- to full-bodied with generous but gently mouth-coating tannins, opening to show currant, wild berry, chocolate and espresso coffee notes. Deep, round, nearly chewy and with a deep fruit finish. Drink now–2014. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Rogov,

Are these the same wines? not counting the one point lower score now, the drinking windows and actual tn's are different. any thoughts?

Carmel, Shiraz, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, Upper Galilee, 2006: Showing even
better than at earlier tastings. Deep garnet with hints of royal purple and
casting orange and green reflections, a concentrated wine, full-bodied and
deeply extracted yet showing remarkably soft tannins and spicy wood that
almost melts on the palate. On first attack plums and currants, those
making way for black cherries, hints of saddle leather and notes of
asphalt. On the long and generous finish with tannins rising a comfortable
overlay of freshly roasted herbs and cedar wood. Approachable now but what
a waste as this one will start showing its best only in 2011. Cellar
comfortably until 2017. NIS 120. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 9 Jun 2009)

[Daniel Rogov]

Michael, Hi......


As is said: "My bad". Typing too quickly and then cutting and pasting too carelessly on my part. The second and better note is the correct one. Thank you for finding that goof. I have corrected it in the original post.

Best
Rogov

[Adam M]

Can't believe Tura is selling for $43+ in the US! Doubt it will last with these scores.

[Daniel Rogov]

If you've made your way to the end of this long list of tasting notes and want to see a few more - of wines currently being imported into Israel and tasted at Sommlier, see the thread at viewtopic.php?f=29&t=28155

Best
Rogov

[Rotem Perets]

I am interested in hearing your opinion on the interesting choice made by Golan Heights winery to exhibit the 2007 SV Syrah.
Even Victor claimed that it is not yet ready for drinking and should still be cellared.

Rotem

[Daniel Rogov]

Rotem, Hi.....

With re the 2007 Syrah single vineyard, an advance tasting indeed. Interestingly, I often suggest not serving wines that are not quite ready for drinking as many will not 'understand" them but I appreciate the winery's desire to do so for those sophisticated enough to see the future potential to the wine. Winemaker's choice and a free one at that. My note for the particular wine follows

Best
Rogov

Yarden, Syrah, Yonatan Vineyard, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Almost impenetrably deep garnet in color, a deep and concentrated wine, showing still firm tannins and generous spicy wood but those integrating nicely and showing fine balance and structure. On first attack red plums, cherries and a note of cassis liqueur those yielding to currant and berry fruits all on a background of earthy minerals. From mid-palate on look for hints of small game birds and a note of leather that lingers nicely onto the long, long finish. Best 2011-2020. Score 94. K (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)
''

[David Raccah]

Sorry for the late posting, but I could not help but notice that we now have another serious winery (and kosher to boot) putting out a Carginan Old Vine wine!! Way to go Gil! Also, I second many here that given the scores and state of affairs of the economy, these small "new" wineries will need deep pockets to work through the kinks, or they will mostly die off. Too many times, I see wineries that are kosher trying to push their wares for 30+ dollars - not going to happen on my table - nuf said. Way to go Daniel yo man's job and well done for sure!

David