Israeli Whites for Summertime: 35 Wines (K and Non-K)

[Daniel Rogov]

With summer fully on us, it is only natural that we turn more of our attention from red to white wines. Made from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Gewurtztraminer and others of the most noble varieties, white wines can be no less complex than reds. Equally important, partly because they are often lighter in body, crisply dry and have finely tuned acidity to add a sense of liveliness and partly because they are served cold, they can be far more refreshing during days when the heat and humidity are oppressive. Following are reviews of a selection of local white wines now available in wine shops.

Yatir, Sauvignon Blanc, 2008: Light golden straw with a green tint, developed primarily in stainless steel and partly in older barriques for 3-4 months Fresh and crisp, with citrus, kiwi and gooseberry fruits all with a light hints of oyster shells and sea water. Lovely! Drink now-2010. NIS 70. Score 91. K

Yatir, Viognier, 2008: Unoaked, a juicy wine, showing pear, peach and greengage plum fruits, those supported by notes of fennel seed and peach pits, all coming together in a long, harmonious and near-creamy finish. Drink now–2011. NIS 83. Score 91. K

Tzora Vineyards, Blanc, Neve Ilan, 2008: Showing even better than at barrel tastings. Made entirely from Chardonnay grapes, developing in French oak, 40% of which are new, and partly in stainless steel vats, drinking quite nicely. Showing medium-bodied, with fine acidity and minerality. On first attack tropical and summer fruits, those followed by notes of citrus, all on a lightly spicy background. Fresh, lively and complex, lingering nicely on the palate, an intriguing Chardonnay wine . Drink now-2011. NIS 80. Score 91. K

Sea Horse, Chenin Blanc, James, 2008: A surprisingly full-bodied Chenin Blanc but what a happy surprise, for this rich and stylish wine is on its way to showing a tempting array of fig, white peach, almond, mineral and cardamom notes, all on a background of heather and minerals. If Sea Horse's 2007 Chenin Blanc might have called to mind the better dry wines of this varietal from South Africa, this one would make a fine competitor to a well made French Vouvray. Drinking nicely now but best from mid-2010-2014. NIS 80. Score 91.

Dalton, Viognier, Reserve, 2008: Light gold in color, fermented with wild yeasts and highly aromatic. Rich ripe and generous, showing appealing honeyed nectarine and pineapple fruits all with a hint of pepper. Rich and harmonious. Drink now–2013. NIS 74. Score 91. K
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Castel, "C", Chardonnay, Blanc du Castel, 2007: Gold, with green and orange tints, deeply floral, full-bodied and with generous but not overpowering oak that parts comfortably to reveal a complex array of citrus peel, summer fruits, hazelnuts, vanilla and crisp minerals. Lively and complex, opening nicely at this stage and showing a near creamy personality, that with a most welcome note of bitterness to enchant. Drink now-2011. NIS 150. Score 90. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Chardonnay, 2007: Developed partly in barriques, partly in stainless steel for 11 months, a medium-bodied, crisply freshly and aromatic wine. Freshly dampened golden-straw in color, showing a gentle hand with the wood, with the nose and palate opening with hints of honey, flaky pastry and minerals, and goes on to show yellow plum and citrus blossoms. Well structured, long and elegant. As the wine develops in bottles look for a gentle honeyed and creamy hint that will creep in. Drink now-2011.NIS 90. Score 90. K

Golan Heights Winery, Gewurztraminer, Yarden, 2008: The color of freshly dampened straw, showing medium-bodied with traditional Gewurztraminer spices, litchis and floral notes. In the background ripe peaches and a note of citrus peel and finishing with notes of aze petals and minerals. Even though categorized as off-dry, there is but a bare-hint of sweetness here, that tantalizing and refreshing. Drink now-2011. NIS 55. Score 90. K

Vitkin, Johannisberg Riesling, 2006: Light gold in color, opens with a floral nose and goes on to reveal apricot, grapefruit, bitter orange peel and notes of green apples. Since release has come to show traditional Riesling traits - spicy and long, with the flowers of Alsace and the petrol note of the Rhine. Drink now–2012.NIS 75. Score 90.

Flam, Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay, 2008: As it is every year, an unoaked blend, this year of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Chardonnay. Crisply fresh and aromatic, showing tropical and citrus fruits along with citrus flowers and flinty minerals. Fine balance here between fruits and acidity to make the wine both lively and fascinating. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 70. Score 90.

Galil Mountain, Avivim, 2007: Medium-bodied, light golden straw in color, a blend of 69% Viognier and 31% Chardonay, those aged on their lees in new French oak barriques for 9 months. Youthful and zesty, with lightly spicy cedar wood notes highlighting am array of tropical fruits, pears and honeydew melon Lurking comfortably in the background a hint of red grapefruit. Drink now. NIS 75. Score 90. K

Golan Heights Winery, Sauvignon Blanc, Yarden, 2008: Light golden straw in color, light- to medium-bodied, a crisply refreshing wine with just enough complexity to catch our attention. On the nose and palate generous green apple, lime and grapefruit, those complemented nicely by hints of pine needles and freshly cut grass, all lingering nicely on the finish. Drink now-2011. NIS 55. Score 89. K

Carmel, Sauvignon Blanc, Appellation, Upper Galilee, 2008: Made from 25 year old vines, unoaked, showing light golden straw in color, showing freshly aromatic and on the nose and palate citrus, tropical fruits and citrus peel notes. Not a complex wine but one that is lively and remarkably full of flavor and charm. As good as a cocktail party offering as with food. Drink now. NIS 55. Score 89. K

Carmel, Sauvignon Blanc, Private Collection, 2008: Light golden straw in color with green and orange tints, medium-bodied, with citrus and ripe peaches on the nose and palate, those supported nicely by a hint of freshly cut grass. Straightforward and refreshing, a very good quaffer. Drink now. About NIS 30. Score 87. K

Barkan, Chardonnay, Reserve, 2008: Golden straw in color, with a light wood influence and fine acidity that highlight flavors and aromas of citrus, mango and pineapple on a lightly peppery background. Round, refreshing and complex enough to grab the attention. Drink now-2011. NIS 44. Score 88. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Unoaked Chardonnay, 2007: Light gold in color, medium-bodied, with crisp acidity to support appealing tropical and citrus fruits, those on a background of light, near-flinty minerals and finishing with a hint of white pepper. Calls to mind Petit Chablis. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 90. Score 88. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Sauvignon Blanc, 2008: Blended with a small quantity of Semillon, the wine oak-aged in small part, showing light gold in color with lively and crisp acidity. Opens with notes of kiwis, guava and grapefruit, those supported nicely by light hints of freshly cut grass, all with just enough complexity to grab our attention. Drink now. NIS 74. Score 88. K

Recanati, Chardonnay, 2008: Reflecting its several months in oak with gentle hints of spices, a medium- full-bodied white showing an appealing array of peach, pear and citrus fruits, those backed up nicely by lively acidity. Lively and with an appealing note of complexity. Drink now-2011. NIS 52. Score 88. K

Bravdo, Chardonnay, 2008: Oak aged for only three months, imparting a light note of toasted white bread. Medium-bodied, with appealing nectarine, peach and green apple notes. Not complex but lively and easy to drink. Drink now. NIS 90. Score 88. K

Vitkin, White Journey, 2008: A blend of 55% Viognier, 35% French Colombard and 10% Gewurztraminer, the Viognier aged in new French oak, the others sur lie in stainless steel tanks. Flowery on both the nose and palate, surprisingly happily by its crisp and refreshing acidity, and opening to reveal generous ripe summer fruits. Lively and refreshing. Drink now.NIS 50. Score 88.

Golan Heights Winery, Sauvignon Blanc, Gamla, 2008: The color of damp straw, medium-bodied, with fine acidity, a lively wine showing appealing citrus, green apples and passion fruits on a lightly spicy background. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 55. Score 87. K

Recanati, Sauvignon Blanc, 2008: Light gold in color, a lively unoaked white showing pineapple, citrus and citrus peel notes, those supported by a nice hint of Mediterranean herbs. Fresh and lively, with just enough complexity to catch our attention. Drink now. NIS 52. Score 87. K

Binyamina, Sauvignon Blanc, Reserve, 2008: Be patient with this one as when first poured it seems awfully quiet, almost as if it's going through a late bottling shock. Given twenty minutes in the glass though and the wine opens nicely. I might even have chutzpah enough to suggest decanting for 10-15 minutes before serving. Light- to medium-bodied, and unoaked, once the wine does open, aromas and flavors of citrus and pineapple, those matched nicely by hints of asparagus (yes, asparagus, not unusual with the variety) and earthy minerals. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 55. Score 87. K

Binyamina, Gewurztraminer, 2008: An appealing light- to medium-bodied Gewurztraminer, half-dry but with fine balancing acidity to keep it lively. In addition to traditional litchi and rosewater notes look for hints of pink grapefruit here. Not overly complex but easy to drink, especially as an aperitif or to match noodles-based dishes or wraps. Drink now or in the next year or two. NIS 55. Score 87. K

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Reserve, 2007: Light gold in color, medium-bodied, with a gently spicy oak overlay, opens to reveal appealing citrus and tropical fruits, those on a near creamy background. On the moderately long finish an appealingly bitter herbal note. Drink now or in the next year or two. NIS 65. Score 86. K

Teperberg, Chardonnay, Silver, 2008: Treated to a half year of oaking, showing a nice hint of spicy wood on the nose, a bright and lively wine with good acidity, tropical, apple and lime fruits, and on the long finish hints of melon and spices. Lingers nicely. Drink now. NIS 38. Score 87. K

Teperberg, Sauvignon Blanc, 2008: Medium-bodied, crisp and lively with appealing grassy notes to highlight aromas and flavors of citrus and passion fruit. Drink now. NIS 38. Score 87. K

Tulip, White Tulip, 2008: Containing 60% Gewurztraminer and 40% Sauvignon Blanc, a small portion of which was oak-aged. This is, to say the least, not at all a standard blend. Golden straw in color, medium-bodied and deeply aromatic. On the nose and palate a somewhat unusual combination of grassiness, litchis, grapefruit and peppermint. Interesting but perhaps not to everyone's taste. Drink now. NIS 64. Score 86.

Tishbi, Chardonnay, Estate, 2008: Blended with 10% of Viognier, golden straw in color, medium-bodied with green apple, summer fruits and melon note. Drink now. Score 86. K

Tishbi, Sauvignon Blanc, Estate, 2008: Unoaked, light- to medium-bodied, light straw colored, showing apple and citrus fruits on a light grassy background. Drink now. Score 85. K

Barkan, Sauvignon Blanc, Reserve, 2008: Light and lively, with appealing tropical fruit and green apple notes supported by lively acidity and a note of freshly cut grass on the finish. Drink now. NIS 35. Score 86. K

Segal, Chardonnay, Marom Galil, Single, 2007: Medium-bodied, golden-straw in color, showing hints of smoky oak, with a note of mint overlaying pineapple, lemon and lime fruits. Drink now. NIS 50. Score 85. K

[Adam M]

Thanks for putting this together. Will need to tuck away for another year or so, however, as the lion's share of these wines are not readily available in the US yet. We are about a year behind you. Haval!

[Daniel Rogov]

That being the case, see my 2009 book for reviews of wines that are probably now in the USA. If you don't have the book, find out what's available and post tasting note requests........

Best
Rogov

[Adam M]

exactly what I've been doing. I have been enjoying many of the kosher wines on your list, just a year or two behind in vintage due to lack of availability - unfortuantely!!

[Daniel Rogov]

To make life a bit easier, my new book "Rogov's Wine to World Kosher Wines" will be released in the next few weeks and that lists wines nearly all of which are currently available in the USA.

Best
Rogov

[Adam M]

...am holding my breath

[Ben S]

To make life a bit easier, my new book "Rogov's Wine to World Kosher Wines" will be released in the next few weeks and that lists wines nearly all of which are currently available in the USA.

Best
Rogov

That's very exciting. I'm looking forward to seeing it on the shelves here and back in the States.