From the grower cooperative in Tain, the village on the Rhone at the foot of the Hermitage hill, this 2003 isn't quite what I would have expected from such a hot vintage - well, the harsh and heavy tannins are, but not the light and herbaceous fruit. Not a favorite for me, and not really worth the toll. I don't see it going anywhere but down with cellar time.
<table border="0" align="right" width="170"><tr><td><img src="http://www.wineloverspage.com/graphics1/tain0119.jpg" border="1" align="right"></td></tr></table>Cave de Tain 2003 Crozes Hermitage ($14)
Pronounced tobacco-leaf character dominates in the nose, with subtle black fruit and black pepper following. Flavors consistent with the nose, rather light-bodied, simple fruit and rough tannins; fresh acidity reinforces the tannic structure, and green herbaceousness becomes increasingly evident with time in the glass. The tannins bespeak '03 but the fruit seems a bit shy for that hot vintage. A claimed alcohol level of 13% isn't all that high for the vintage either, assuming it's an accurate meassure. U.S. importer: Vintner Select, Mason, Ohio. (Jan. 18, 2007)
<b>FOOD MATCH:</b> Food helps smooth things over; it works well to wash down sliced leftover roast pork in a simple mushroom and red-wine sauce over mezzi rigatoni.
