I had not had a Henriot bubbly before encountering the 96 at a champagne tasting at Hi Times' exceptional wine store in Southern California, but it was a favorite that night and so I jumped at these roses when I saw them recently at a comparatively low price.
Well, the '98's clearly not the equal of its older sister but it's certainly worth what I paid. Pale copper pink color. Good mousse and fine bubbles, but the spritz isn't persistent and it fades toward the end of the glass. The nose is floral with a bit of red apple and toast, and there's a hint of a sherry flavor which, however pleasant (and it is), seems like an interloper. The cork popped almost too easily--I'm wondering if a less-than-perfect seal is responsible for both the sherry component and the less-than-stellar carbonation. I hope so; I have a few more.
