WTN: Lively Mediterrean blend from a Roussillon star.

[Tim York]

Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes « Les Calcinaires » 2007 – Domaine Gauby – Alc. 12% - (€13,78), made from Muscat, Macabeu, Chardonnay and Vermentino.

Gauby is arguably the star of Roussillon and has won plaudits, particularly in France, for transforming his wines from this warm region into a more elegant and less alcoholic style. His whites are amongst the most refined and refreshing on the Mediterranean rim. This is his entry level white cuvée.
C: Quite pale with a noticeable prickle visible in the glass for some time after pouring.
N: Refreshing, aromatic and quite complex with notes of citrus fruit, honey and minerals.
P: Medium bodied with bright fruit, similar aromas to the nose, lively acidity, good Mediterranean “gras” and backbone ( a grapefruit tang on the finish) which stood up well to swordfish steak with a rich pesto sauce. On a sultry evening, the wine’s temperature rose rapidly above the 11-12°C aiming point but it was good enough to reveal extra complexity whilst retaining freshness up to about 15°; very good indeed; 16/20+ QPR.

Here are succinct notes from a March sip and spit tastings of two of Gauby’s more ambitious white cuvées.

VDPCC Vieilles Vignes 2006 (W) (€27), made from Macabeu and Grenache blanc & gris, was in a similar style but rounder, deeper and fuller; 16/20++.
VDPCC “Coume Gineste” 2006 (W) (€68!!!), made from 100 year Grenache blanc & gris vines, shows complex aromas of exotic fruit, and dense, rich substance with a lot of grip; 16.5/20++ but worth the price???