WTN: 1997 Maso Cervara Teroldego Rotaliano

[Ian Sutton]

Not necessarily intended for this month's wine focus, but perhaps this wine isn't a bad fit. Though it wasn't cooled, it's perhaps a red for summer.

1997 Maso Cervara Teroldego Rotaliano Riserva Superiore - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Trentino, Teroldego Rotaliano (6/13/2009)
My first experience with this grape/DOC.

Colour is a remarkably youthful medium bodied purple/claret with no sign of age at the rim. A distinctive but not assertive nose, vaguely reminiscent of an earthy Dolcetto, albeit with a faint streak of blackcurrant & bell-pepper.

A very light palate, with vanilla too prominent (is this a varietal feature or oak treatment?) and a very reserved fruit profile, with no sign of any particular aged character. No tannins and acidity not too strong, but perhaps well-judged for the wine as a whole. There's a tangy black tea like twist to the finish and noticeably not very 'fruit-sweet'. 12% alc is not surprising in this context.

I must admit I find this a bit confusing - surprised at the seeming lack of development, yet it isn't tightly bound. Interesting to try, but not really sparking a desire to hunt further examples down.

regards

Ian