WTN: Poor QPR Chiroubles but meal saved by good Corbières

[Tim York]

I am not normally a detractor of beefy George because I recognise the work which he has done since 60s to improve the overall commercial standard of Beaujolais. I have enjoyed quite a lot of his bottles whilst agreeing that they mostly lack the spark of those from, say, Pierre-Marie Chermette as well as those I remember hand-picked by the owners of good 1960s Paris bistrots. Last autumn, however, I was disappointed by his Beaujolais nouveau which was lean and mean and so was this Chiroubles 2007 – Georges Duboeuf, which was thin and fairly tasteless with dry angular tannins; 12.5/20. Although the price (€9) was promising, this is in no way good QPR.

Fortunately another bottle opened for the cooking was at hand. It was Corbières “Le Prieuré” 2007 – Château de Vaugelas (<€5), made from Syrah, 100 year Carignan, old Grenache and Mourvèdre . This showed altogether more character; there were aromas of raspberry, plum, Mediterranean herbs, liquorice and tar on a full body with ripe tannins and an up-front and somewhat short shape on the palate; quite rustic but robustly enjoyable. This one is excellent QPR; 15.5/20.