SCALLOPS BOURGUIGNONNE (FRENCH)

Looking for another Burgundian dish to accompany another fine White Burg, my thoughts turned to Escargots Bourguignonne, another classic ... but I'm not wild about eating slugs in or out of the shell, and my wife is even less so. So inspiration struck: Apply a modification of the Escargot Bourguignonne treatment to scallops. And not just any scallops, but a passel of rich, sweet and absolutely delicious little Nantucket Bay scallops -- spare no expense! -- just in at the fishmonger's.

Loosely based on the escargots recipe in Mirielle Johnston's "Cuisine of the Rose," it was a triumph. The scallops, firm and tender and sweet as seafood candy, took naturally to the buttery-garlicky sauce, which also made great dipping with ciabatta rolls ... and it all married delightfully indeed with the Verget 1994 Puligny-Montrachet "Les Enseigneres."

Preheat the oven to 400F.

Place about 12 ounces of scallops (to serve two humans with leftover treats for cats), the freshest and best-quality available, in an ovenproof (pyrex) bowl, and stir in the juice of one lemon. Set aside.

Mince enough Italian flatleaf parsley to make about 1/4 cup. Mince 1 or 2 garlic cloves, enough to make at least 1 tablespoon. Measure out 1/4 cup dry white wine.

Melt 2 tablespoons butter and 1/2 tablespoon olive oil in a nonstick sautee pan. Sautee the garlic until it's golden and aromatic, then stir in the parsley. Stir briefly, then add the wine and bring to the boil. Pour all over the scallops, and pop in the oven. Cook uncovered for 6 to 10 minutes, just long enough to get the buttery sauce bubbling and cook the scallops through. Don't overcook.

Serve with lots of bread to sop up the delicious juices, and a salad or green vegetable. (We went with fresh spinach, steamed just until it wilted.)