September 2000 Baco Noir Vertical at Lakeview Cellars
© Paul Bulas
I visited Lakeview Cellars in September 2000 for a comparative tasting of VQA Baco Noir from the 1992, 1994, 1995 and 1997 vintages. Lakeview's Baco vines were apparently first planted on the site in 1988. The winemaker, Eddy Gurinskas, is known for producing full-bodied, dense reds which I have come to greatly enjoy over the years.
1992 Lakeview Cellars
Baco Noir (VQA Ontario)
10.4% alc. What an eye-opener first off! An atypically light
colour for Baco, reflecting the cool and wet 1992 vintage. Light
brick red with considerable browning throughout. Some acetic
whiffs mingle with high-toned boysenberries, beeswax and tart
strawberries on the nose which is sharply acidic, but in a
pleasantly bracing way. Old blackcurrants on the palate with some
leather. Very tart yet agreeable.
1994 Lakeview Cellars Baco Noir (VQA Ontario)
11.9% alc. Darker in colour than the '92, the '94 has bricking on
the sides with a dark, brownish-garnet centre. Smoky buckwheat on
the nose with leather and sweet fruits. Much richer palate feel.
The tannins are very light. Good persistence on the palate.
1995 Lakeview Cellars Baco Noir (VQA Ontario)
12.6% alc. A little bit of bricking at the rim. Dark garnet at
the centre, this one has the densest colour so far, with a
noticeably fruitier nose of sweet, candied dark berries. Whiffs
of smoky burnt wood. Pronounced acidity, but with its very smooth
palate feel, it just "glides down the hatch".
1997 Lakeview Cellars Baco Noir (VQA Ontario)
12.1% alc. Pure, dense, youthful purple-violet colour. Tart, dark
blackberries on the nose; fresh and young. Very smooth palate
feel. Silky. Forceful smoky buckwheat on the mid-palate.
Diminutive, youthful tannins.
1997 Lakeview Cellars Baco Noir Reserve (VQA Ontario)
18 months in oak. 12.1% alc. Marginally darker in colour than the
regular 1997 Baco. Very dense, silky palate feel. Much "thicker".
Lively acidity as in all previous Bacos, albeit in a more gentle
vein. Overall, a richer, fuller, "built-up" impression.
After the tasting I went on a brief tour of the vineyard and had a close-up look at the Cabernet Sauvignon and Baco grapes, which were just about ready for harvesting. The ripe purple-black colour of the berries was just beautiful. This is why I love red French hybrids. Do I ever regret not taking my camera and getting some pics!
September 2000