An experiment in unorthodox thinking: Dry Niagara

© Paul Bulas

Before me today stands a glass of wine unlike any I've tried in the past: It's my very own homemade 2001 dry varietal Niagara.

This past autumn, I had the chance to buy some grapes and make some homemade wine. My goal was to get Niagara grapes and make as dry a wine as possible from them. I wanted to experience a pure labrusca wine that, philosophically, ran against the grain in every imaginable way in terms of what common practise dictated should be done when vinifying labrusca.

To this end, I added no water to the must, wanting the natural acidity of the grapes -- not to mention the aromas -- to shine through. The only adjustment which was necessary was that of sugar: I chaptalized the must in order to bring the potential alcohol up from a low 8% to about 11%, when fermented dry.

When Niagara and Concord are made into wine, there are some dramatic changes in the way that their strong aromas express themselves. For one thing, the "candy" aspect, sometimes mildly noticeable in the aftertaste of the grapes, becomes quite high-toned and takes over on the nose of the wine. There is also an "oily" note that can sometimes be picked up from the fresh grapes, but that in the wine expresses itself as the dominant undertone. This aroma, which I have seen described also as a "fusel" aroma, almost makes me think of the oily/diesel aromas in certain Rieslings.

And so here is my tasting note:

2001 Homemade Dry Varietal Niagara
Pearly golden straw colour. An overwhelmingly foxy aroma hits the senses; it comprises aromas of sweet, candied lemon rind, fresh grape jelly, diesel oil/road tar, and raw game. An acidic twang can be sensed in the background. Very bright, sharp, crisp acidity on the entry. Crisp and dry, warming palate-feel. The finish is crisp and clean and it carries more of the same sweetish candied aromas with slight honey-like hints.

What this essentially shows me, is that a 100% pure varietal labrusca wine can indeed be successful dry. Granted, the aromas are very sweetish, and this may make for expectations of a sweet texture in the wine -- but I can see no requirement that the wine be sweet. The texture and aromatic purity in a wine made from 100% fresh labrusca grapes is completely analogous to that which is found in vinifera wine. The only major issue, as I see it, is the strong foxy aromas. As the saying goes, you either love it or hate it.

December 2001

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