Zinfandel is the topic of the special January issue, which includes detailed reviews and ratings on some 150 newly released Zins as well as ratings for an additional 400 Zinfandels. Click the cover image to visit Connoisseurs' Guide to California Wine.

As a collector whose purchases of Cabernet have necessarily been curtailed by the limits of pocketbook and rationality, I certainly share their concern. But, what I do not share is their solution. It is all too easy to say, "I do not drink California Cabernets anymore" while pointing piously to the excesses of $100 labels and overinflated auction prices for the rarest wines.

It takes no great display of intellect to ignore wines that only a stockbroker or the new high-tech millionaires can afford. What is required in parlous times is a little bit of ingenuity and a willingness to look at good solutions.

One does not have to buy Caymus and Chateau Montelena Cabernets, wines that used to be staples in our wine collection regimens when they cost $35. Instead, try new labels, look for those folks trying to break into the top ranks, look for recommended wines at levels that are still affordable. Those wines do exist. And they are coming from exalted producers like Beaulieu and from the lately arrived producers.

Now, given that this is a discussion of Cabernet Sauvignon, there are going to be some wines listed below that are not significant bargains. But those few wines come from producers worth remembering either for their potential or for still unrecognized superiority of the type that will push their prices into the stratosphere in the future as their popularity grows. Cabernet Sauvignon has always been expensive, and buying and collecting it has always challenged its fans to be selective lest they get their pockets picked clean. Hopefully, a few of the selections below will restore a semblance of order to all of our thoughts about the grape.

$ 1997 Buttonwood Farm, Santa Ynez Valley, $16. Here is an open, ripe, slightly juicy and eminently easy-to-taste Cabernet of the type that is right at home with my family. It has aromas and flavors of ripe cherries and mild but evident toasted herbs with a dollop of sweet oak for richness. It is rounded and slightly fleshy in texture, yet its temperate tannins lend a bit of "grip" and structure without compromising its current enjoyment.

$ 1998 Buena Vista Winery, Carneros, $16. In truth, I find my bottle of this wine for $11 so look around a bit. At that price, you will be very hard pressed to find a better bargain in Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is reasonably full and rich with an involving mix of ripe cherries and hints of dried berries for a bit of concentrated flavor at its heart. It tannins are firm but not overbearing, and if it is not as soft and supple as the Buttonwood Cabernet above, it will go with sturdier foods because it is a bit more muscular in construction.

1997 Beaulieu Vineyard Tapestry, Napa Valley, $36. This wine is proof that one does not need to overspend to buy a great Cabernet, for while it is true that I rate BV's 1997 George de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet at three stars, it is also true that it costs $100. If you, like me, are not always blessed with a spare C-note, turn instead to this delightfully luscious blend of Bordelais varietals. Its complex character includes sweet berries, pencil lead, cedar and a hint of sweet spice to go along with its caramelized vanilla bean notes. The firm streak of tannins in its finish is offset by the wine's deep, rich flavors, yet this is one that can easily be laid away for a half dozen years if that is your wont.

1997 Dehlinger Winery, Russian River Valley, $35. The fans of this superb winery are multiplying by the day. Its world-class Pinots have brought it great fame of late, but its other wines are also worth trying. This Cabernet is ripe and fairly concentrated with plenty of berryish fruit and a thick, fleshy feel on the palate. No shrinking violet this one, it will need to be partnered with savory dishes to come into its own.

$ 1997 Franus Wine Company, Napa Valley, $28. Peter Franus' winery deserves more acclaim than it has been getting, but, for the moment, we consumers are the beneficiaries of very good wines being offered at prices that are more typical of Cabernets several years ago. The wine starts with intriguing aromas of raspberry, vanilla, orange-rind and currants, and its ample, well-filled flavors are every bit as long and deep on fruit and oaky spice as promised by the nose. It has a pretty good slug of tannin that will need some five or more years of cellaring, but if you lay it away, you will be joining me in buying one of the bargains of the season.

$ 1998 Ravenswood, Sonoma County, $16. A bit brusque and oriented to ripeness and tough tannin, this surprisingly rich wine offers a stylistic choice in Ravenswood's typically muscular direction. Its ripe black cherry character plays a bit of a second fiddle to chocolatey and oaky themes, but the mix of pieces works for those who, like certain members of my family, insist on mass and brawn in their red wines.

1997 Wente Vineyards, Charles Wetmore Reserve, Livermore Valley, $22. For those of us, including my dear wife, who will find the Ravenswood Cabernet a bit too chewy for their tastes, this open, easy-to-like, accessible Cabernet with its attractive cherries and cream flavors and its silky smooth, inviting texture will be just the ticket.

This article is based on tastings conducted by Connoisseurs' Guide to California Wine, a monthly newsletter devoted to the critical review of California and West Coast wines. For more information send us E-mail at CGCW@aol.com or visit our Website at http://www.cgcw.com. We can be reached by postal mail at CGCW, PO Box V, Alameda, CA 94501 or by phone at (510) 865-3150 and fax at (510) 865-4843.

Definition of Symbols

A world-class wine, superb by any measure, the top 1% to 2% of all wines tasted.
An exceptional wine, well worth the effort to find, 10% to 12% of wines tasted.
An admirable wine, tasty, focused, attractive, about 25% of wines tasted.