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Wine Brats Wine and food: The topic that won't go away
© 2000 by Scott Gunerman
Welcome back, thanks for stopping by. On this trip into the cellar, you'll find plenty of tasting notes (including two very rare gems!) and some commentary on a topic that has been overdone and beaten to death. It's the topic that won't go away - it's like the Thanksgiving leftovers and that fruitcake that arrives every Holiday Season. Any guesses? It's wine and food! Every other wine writer on earth has done it, so why can't I? Coming up with new material all the time isn't as easy as you might think, so I'll take a stab this time and try to come up with something you haven't heard 200 times before. Comments, suggestions, ideas and anything else should be sent to cellarbrat1@yahoo.com - everyone gets a reply!

This is a Column, not an Encyclopedia!

First thing's first - this is not meant to be an all inclusive, comprehensive A-Z list of rules and theories that will teach you to become an Executive Chef and a Master Sommelier all wrapped in one. I am not an expert in wine, food, or wine and food pairing. I am an everyday joe with passion for wine, a big appetite and a small budget. Therefore, I can't afford to drive to the nearest restaurant and start ordering bottles of wine and seven course meals to do some experimenting. This column is meant to give you a few tips and also to inspire you to start enjoying a little bit of wine with your meals, that's all.

A world famous sommelier once said that he felt sorry for everyone that did not enjoy food and wine together, because when they awoke each morning that would be the best they would feel all day long. Not true for the rest of us - food and wine were meant for each other and can bring out the best qualities when they are consumed together. It's just not dining if you're not having wine with your meal, simple as that.

The Rules

Common sense is first. Don't ever try to match food and wine that you don't like with the hopes of creating something that you do like - magic is not real! Always start with a wine that you like all by itself - most of the wine will be consumed without the benefit of the food. Think about it - do you really think that you're going to have a sip of wine with every single bite? No! Even if you were that neurotic, you'd still have some wine left after the food is gone. If you can't stand the wine without the food, what's the point? Even if the match is not perfect, at least you've got a wine that you enjoy.

Ever heard the old saying, "red wine with red meat, white wine with white meat"? Forget you ever heard it. In today's wine world, not all red wines are big, tannic, heavy-duty wines that cry out for a big slab of beef. Same with whites - they're not all light, fruity, wimpy wines that need delicate food to show their best. In fact, most California Chardonnay's in today's wine world are heavier and more full-bodied than most California Pinot Noirs and even some Cabernet Sauvignons. Why? Partly because technology and winemaking have greatly improved and new winemaking styles have evolved over the years as well. A better approach would be to try to match the weight of the food with the weight of the wine. To show their best, big foods need big wine. Medium food needs medium wine. Light, delicate food needs - you can figure it out from here. Another idea is to match the wine with the sauce or the predominant flavor of the food. Pairing wine with plain old baked chicken versus cajun or barbecue should yield 3 different wines, based on the boldest flavor of the food.

Another bit of good old common sense comes from the old saying, "what grows together goes together." If you're eating some sort of regional cuisine, try a regional wine. For example, French cheese and French wine, pasta and an Italian red, steak and Cabernet, barbecue and Zinfandel (what's more American than that?). This may be a reach, but I bet nothing would go better with a kangaroo patty than a nice Aussie Shiraz!

Also, don't forget ...

Champagne (the real thing) and sparkling wine go with everything, including ice cream, cereal, hotdogs and chicken wings. Well, maybe not everything, but you get the idea. Don't wait for a celebration or special occasion to drink the bubbly - you owe it to yourself to drink it just for the fun of it. Sparklers are very food friendly wines due to their palate cleansing acidity and you also don't have to spend a ton of money for a good one (Seaview Brut and Domaine Ste. Michelle come to mind).

Experimentation is also fun when it comes to food and wine. Who cares if you want Zinfandel with your green beans or peanut butter and jelly sandwich? If you like it, go for it! If you ask me that's part of what makes wine so fun.

And if you are really lazy and don't want to put any effort into your wine and food pairings, I have an answer for you as well. There's a handy little book called The Wine Navigator, written by Doug Hexter, that takes all the pain out of wine and food paring. It sells for about $10 and should be available in most major bookstores. It is a great book - check it out and see for yourself!

In conclusion ...

The entire idea behind wine and food pairing is to just enjoy yourself. Don't get intimidated, don't let someone spoil your fun because of some ancient rule or theory and feel free to experiment once in awhile. If you like a particular wine, have it with some food that you like and you're on your way to an enjoyable experience. When you do get one of those combinations that works so perfectly together, you'll fell like a king (or queen).

Recipe for fun

Here is a recipe straight from The Brat's own kitchen, with a wine to match. Remember that I'm still a beginning cook, so don't expect to see something that looks like it's off the menu at The Four Seasons.

Shrimp & Pasta
3 cups penne (or any other pasta)
2/3 cup butter
1 green pepper, chopped
1 small onion, chopped
1lb shrimp (fresh from the seafood dept. is best)
1 1/2 tsp minced garlic

1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp oregano
1/4 tsp pepper
grated cheese
2 med. tomatoes, cubed

  • Cook all ingredients (except pasta, shrimp, cheese, tomatoes) over medium heat for 5-7 minutes
  • Add shrimp for the final two minutes, cook until pink
  • Cook pasta
  • Mix pasta with tomatoes and all other ingredients, cover, let stand 1 minute
  • Top with grated cheese
  • For extra zip, add crushed red pepper while dish is standing

This is very easy to make and I'm sure it can be improved by making minor adjustments to suit your own taste. The wine I chose to serve with this recipe was a match made in heaven - the 1999 Rombauer Chardonnay from Carneros, CA. If you can't find it, or don't want to spend $20+, any full-bodied California Chardonnay will do just fine.

TASTING NOTES - hey, give me a break - I'm not Robert Parker, Jr.!

1999 Rombauer Vineyards Chardonnay - Carneros, CA: Wow! A beauty - full bodied and rich (13.8% alcohol), big citrus fruit on nose, hints of oak and layers of flavor. Oak does not overpower this wine, it works with the fruit instead of trying to bury it. Smooth and well balanced on the palate, long finish with notes of spice, butter and silky smooth fruit. Incredible complexity for such a young wine. Best Chardonnay I've ever had (so far), well worth every penny ($20+).

1997 Longridge Cabernet/Merlot - Hawkes Bay, New Zealand: Light in color for such a young wine. Ripe cherry, and maybe some strawberry notes on nose as well. Tart cherry fruit on palate, good acidity. Not a powerhouse, but nice enough and affordable too (about $9).

1999 Coopers Creek Sauvignon Blanc - Marlborough, New Zealand: Sweet tropical fruit on nose, herbaceous and grassy on palate with long flavorful finish. Well balanced, fruity, clean and lots of flavor. Lots of wine for little money ($11) - the best kind around!

1998 Beringer Founder's Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - California: Here's a nice little cab for a very good price ($8). Dark berry fruit on nose, slightly earthy, medium body, medium tannins. Very smooth and easy to drink, also easy on the wallet. It's not going to blow you away, but it's very good for the price!

1998 Falesco Merlot - Umbria, Italy: When I think of finding a good Merlot, Italy does not come to mind, until now. Deep purple color, fruity nose with notes of raspberry and blackberry. Nice tannins, spicy mouthfeel. Well balanced, nice fruit, nice structure - bold, rich and very tasty now and for a few years to come. Price is about $14.

Two rare gems for the very lucky...

1976 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage "La Chapelle" - Hermitage, France: Bright red in color, still looks very much alive in the glass. Nose is mixed with berry fruit and elements of earth, mushrooms and traces of mint. Tannins still firm with plenty of fruit to coat the palate. Smooth, polished and rich - very complex wine. Doing great at 24, should continue to hold up for years to come. Special thanks to fellow wine lover and loyal member of The St. Copious Wine Society, Keenan Oliver, for sharing this special treat with the group from his cellar - thanks again Keenan!!

NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé - Champagne, France: Pinkish in color, lots of tiny little bubbles that keep coming. Nose is full of strawberries and apples. This is sooooo smooth and tasty, flavors are very lively and fresh. Easiest drinking champagne I've ever had, glass after glass. Perfect with food or without. Special thanks to Joseph Llamas MS, for sharing this beauty with me and my wife for our birthday celebration. Legend has it that this wine is available at only about 60 elite restaurants in the country. The importer (Robert Chadderdon Selections) does not sell to retailers and in fact, restaurants have to submit their own wine lists and menus to him before he'll even sell his wine. One of those elite eateries, The Rio Bamba, can be found in Rochester, NY at 282 Alexander Street (716-244-8680). You will not be disappointed!

That's it, finally! Thanks for the visit. Did you learn anything? Let me know if you stumble on any unique wine and food combinations - you may see YOUR name up in lights in cyberspace! Please feel free to write me at cellarbrat1@yahoo.com with your comments, questions and suggestions. Everyone gets a reply! All feedback is welcome and appreciated. Know someone that likes wine? Send 'em the link - I'd love to increase my circulation to double digits! See ya next time from the cellar and remember, wine is more fun than you think...

Gunerman writes "The Brat In The Cellar" twice per month for the Rochester, NY chapter of Wine Brats, found at www.ggw.org/winebrats/. Wine Brats is a national non-profit organization based in California. They are an active group of adult wine enthusiasts who are mostly young in age but absolutely young at heart. Wine Brats enjoy sharing their passion for wine with their peers and take pride in breaking down the cultural walls that for too long have mystified this beautiful beverage. Ultimately, as a non-profit organization, the Brats' purpose is to attract a whole new generation of adults to the wonders of life with wine. For more information, visit the national site at www.winebrats.org/.

Oct. 24, 2000

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