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Wine Brats Under-appreciated Sauvignon Blanc
© 2000 by Scott Gunerman
Welcome back and thanks for stopping by. In this edition, we're going to explore one of the most versatile and one of the most under-rated and under-appreciated grapes in the world - Sauvignon Blanc. It is grown all over the world and made in many different styles from the dry and earthy wines of Bordeaux to the fruity and herbal styles found half a world away in New Zealand. Have questions or comments - drop a line at cellarbrat1@yahoo.com. Everyone gets a reply!

Sauvignon Blanc - "piercingly aromatic, crisp variety solely responsible for some of the world's most popular and most distinctive dry white wines: Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume and a host of Sauvignon and Fume Blancs from outside France."

Jancis Robinson's Guide to Wine Grapes

Sauvignon Blanc (French translation - "savage white"), one of my all-time favorites, is one white wine that can fill many roles for the savvy wine aficionado. First, it signifies the beginning of the summer season. When you live in the North Eastern portion of the country, winter can seem like it lasts ten months of the year. The first string of warm, sunny days is reason enough to race to the wine shop to grab the youngest, freshest bottle of Sauvignon Blanc on the shelf. Opening that first bottle is almost an official rite of passage marking the end of winter and the beginning of summer.

Second, Sauvignon Blanc is affordable! Many of the best examples from around the world can be had for $20 per bottle or less, and plenty of high quality wines can be found in the $10 range. The best Sauvignon Blancs are strikingly aromatic with notes of citrus, grass, minerals, and herbs all wrapped together in a clean, racy little package. Sexy wines, if you will.

Third, you can get them with or without oak. There are two basic styles of Sauvignon Blanc, depending on whether or not the winemaker used oak barrels during fermentation and/or aging. Unoaked wines ooze with bright, fruity flavors, which rely heavily on citrus notes but can also have a touch of herbs, grass or minerals. The oaked versions are richer, bigger wines and can have a buttery element, with fig and toast qualities as well.

The growing season and conditions at harvest are key to making a well balanced Sauvignon Blanc. If the growing season is short and cool, the grapes will have trouble ripening which may create excessive herbal, grassy characteristics in the wine. Yields can also be a problem - unless yields are managed, the grape can grow uncontrollably creating bland, green and unripe flavors. If treated with care, fabulous wines can be made at very affordable prices.

Three Major Sauvignon Blanc-Producing Countries

France: from the Loire Valley (villages of Pouilly-Fume and Sancerre are the most famous) these wines are mostly unoaked to preserve fresh flavors. They are vibrant and crisp with firm acidity and a range of flavors that may include pear, citrus, herbs, minerals and a clean fresh "grassiness." In Bordeaux, many Sauvignon based wines have seen at least some partial oak treatment. These wines are richer and broader than their counterparts in the Loire Valley.

New Zealand: the only country to build its worldwide winemaking reputation on the strength of its Sauvignon Blanc. NZ Sauvignon's feature bright, snappy flavors that center on passion fruit with subtle flavors of lime, citrus, green apple and pear. The ripe, exotic passion fruit/citric flavors can give away a NZ Sauvignon Blanc in blind tastings. The best known of these wines is the hard to find Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc. This wine was the first to give worldwide recognition to NZ as a legitimate wine producing country capable of making world class wines.

California: many wineries produce Sauvignon Blanc however, not many claim it as their flagship wine. Made in all styles ranging from lean and flinty, sweet and fruity, racy, grassy and even oaked versions with buttery flavors and textures. Napa Valley, Dry Creek Valley, Alexander Valley all have the potential to make high quality wines, if they give proper time and attention to the grapes. No matter where it's from, these wines are at their peaks when young and fresh. TASTING NOTES - hey, give me a break - I'm not Robert Parker, Jr.!

2000 Monsieur Touton Sauvignon Blanc - Bordeaux, France: Pale, watery in color. Traces of citrus on the nose. Dry and earthy on the palate. Short, simple, easy drinker. What it lacks in complexity it makes up in value - this one can be had for about $6. For the price, this is a deal.

2000 Voss Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - Napa Valley, CA: Pale, green color. Complex nose with herbs, grass and citrus notes all mixed together. Crisp on the palate with loads of grapefruit and mineral flavors. Finish is long and dry. Excellent wine - can be summed up simply, "Voss is boss!". Worth the $15 price tag.

2000 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc - Marlborough, New Zealand: Pale, watery color. Complex yet subtle on the nose with citrus and herbal notes. Crisp and delicious on the palate. Lots of flavor and oh so smooth. If a wine could seduce you, this would be one that would. I can see why this wine began the S.B craze in the land of Kiwi.

2000 Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc - Sonoma County, CA: Pale, green in color. Straightforward nose of citrus and grapefruit. Herbal/grassy notes mix in on the palate. Good varietal character and good, solid S.B. Pass the goat cheese...

2000 Nobilo Fall Harvest Sauvignon Blanc - Marlborough, New Zealand: Pale, watery color. Sweet melon, gooseberry, passion fruit, cat pee (that's a good thing!), asparagus - classic NZ nose!! Snappy, zingy and perfectly balanced on the palate with loads of flavor. This is a ridiculous wine for $8. Buy 2 cases right now!

2000 Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc - Marlborough/Hawkes Bay, New Zealand: Pale, green in color. Sweet citrus fruit fills the nose. Opens beautifully if you can wait long enough. Clean, refreshing, zingy citrus notes fill your mouth. Another ridiculous wine for under $10. I love this one!

1999 Dry Creek Vineyards Fumé Blanc - Sonoma County, CA: Pale, green color. Ripe citrus and grass on the nose. Clean, dry and a touch of minerals with a grassy touch on the finish. Good, tasty wine.

1999 Caymus Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - Napa Valley, CA: Green, gold in color. Apples, oak dominate the nose. Oak, butter, creamy fruit (apples/pears) evolve in your mouth creating a balanced flavorful combination. Yummy! Well made and it shows. Worth every penny of the $18 price, if you can find it.

That's it, finally! Thanks for the visit. Please feel free to write me at cellarbrat1@yahoo.com with your comments, questions and suggestions. Everyone gets a reply! All feedback is welcomed and appreciated. Know someone that likes wine? Send 'em the link - I'd love to increase my circulation to double digits! See ya next time from the cellar, and remember wine is more fun than you think.

Gunerman writes "The Brat In The Cellar" twice per month for the Rochester, NY chapter of Wine Brats, found at www.ggw.org/winebrats/. Wine Brats is a national non-profit organization based in California. They are an active group of adult wine enthusiasts who are mostly young in age but absolutely young at heart. Wine Brats enjoy sharing their passion for wine with their peers and take pride in breaking down the cultural walls that for too long have mystified this beautiful beverage. Ultimately, as a non-profit organization, the Brats' purpose is to attract a whole new generation of adults to the wonders of life with wine. For more information, visit the national site at www.winebrats.org/.

July 16, 2001

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